The long wait is over: The camels are in heat. Bright-yellow shawls are fetched from the back of the closet. It’s okay again to drink rakı and eat sausages before noon on Sunday. Camel wrestling season has begun.
Few people outside of Turkey have heard about — much less seen — large hump-backed mammals make like Sumo wrestlers. That might be in part because Turkish tourism officials traditionally have not promoted camel wrestling as an attraction, considering it a backward relic from the country’s past, according to the writer Alev Scott.
Perhaps the sport’s connection to a rebellious faction of Turkish men — as explained here and here by Emma Harper — is partially to blame for the lack of official endorsement. You can find detailed descriptions and cultural background in Harper’s articles, but here’s a summary of a typical camel wrestling festival: massive animals frothing at the mouth, alcohol, cold wind, drums, clarinets, smoking grills, dancing, sausages — and did I mention rakı?
The sport — and I’m using the term loosely for an event featuring two very large beasts mostly just leaning on each other — has a rich and convoluted history. Turkic nomads brought the competition from Central Asia along with their animals, it is said. It once was popular all over Anatolia, but now it’s mostly limited to the Aegean provinces.
The season runs from late November to late March, as this is the mating season for the tülüler, the wrestling breed of camel, much bulkier than what you’ve seen Bedouins ride in movies.
The largest and best-known wrestling competition is in Selçuk, on 21 January 2018. I haven’t been there yet, but friends of mine go every year and tell me it’s a huge spectacle taking over the whole town for the weekend with parades and parties. If you want the rock-festival vibe, it sounds like a blast. Getting there couldn’t be easier, now that the IZBAN commuter train runs right from the İzmir airport terminal to downtown Selçuk.
But, while I’m all for watching drunk men dance and love-struck camels spit, I don’t love big crowds. So, I went to Bergama last season for my first camel wrestling. It was an unforgettable weekend. Yes, I saw large camels slobber on each other. I saw singing, dancing and fires. I saw camels ditch their minders and bolt out of the arena. But I also wandered through sleepy cobblestone streets and hiked around ancient ruins with nary a soul in sight.
If you want to see big beasts sort-of-but-not-really try to push each other down, but also want to experience other cultural or natural beauty in peace, here are my recommendations, listed with the dates of their respective camel wrestling festivals for 2017 – 2018 season:
Shortest Distance From İstanbul
Many towns in Çanakkale province put on camel wrestling bouts (see full schedule at the end of this article). Some highlights:
If you’re driving yourself, Lapseki (17 December) is the shortest distance away from the European side of İstanbul, just a brief ferry ride from Gelibolu. Also recommended, if you have your own car, are Ezine (24 December) and Bayramiç (14 January), as they are close to the Bozcaada ferry, which would make a nice side trip.
If you’re taking public transportation, take a ferry from either Yenikapı or Bostancı to Bandırma. From there, you can easily take buses to Biga (4 February) and Çanakkale (21 January). Also doable that way is Saraycık (25 March), as it is just outside of Çanakkale.
Major Attractions Nearby
The following camel wrestling sites feature major attractions in or near the town where they are held:
Kuşadası / Aydın (17 December): It is a major resort town close to Ephesus. There are shuttle buses from İzmir airport.
Demre / Antalya (24 December): Visit St. Nicholas’s grave on Christmas. You can rent a car from Dalaman or Antalya airports.
Pamukkale / Denizli: Several towns near this natural/historic wonder hold wrestling events: Sarayköy (31 December); Denizli (25 February); Çal and Buldan (both on 11 March) You can rent a car from Milas-Bodrum airport, or opt to drive from İzmir airport.
Bodrum (7 January): Camel wrestling during the day, fancy dining at night!
Bergama / İzmir (11 January): Bergama has ancient ruins on a wind-blown hilltop above the town. You can rent a car from İzmir airport, or take the İZBAN from the airport to its northernmost stop and catch the bus #835 outside the station.
Didim / Aydın (25 February): The Temple of Apollo stands out in a region littered with history. You can rent a car from Milas-Bodrum airport.
Salihli / Manisa (25 February and 25 March): Ski the Bozdağı one day, watch camels the next. Rental car from İzmir airport is possible.
Extra Cute Towns
These are towns on the camel-wrestling circuit that I know merit a visit anytime for their own charm:
Ayvalık / Balıkesir (17 December): A gorgeous Greek village by the sea. You can opt for a rental car from İzmir airport or a 5,5 hours drive from İstanbul.
Selimiye / Muğla (28 January): It is a boating paradise on the Bozburun peninsula. Car rental is available from Milas-Bodrum or Dalaman airports.
Tire / İzmir (28 January): The old part of this city is famous for its felt and leather artisans. Take the İZBAN from the airport one stop in either direction and then change to the Basmane-Tire train; be careful about times, as it only runs a few times a day.
The Complete 2017 – 2018 Season Schedule
17 December: Buharkent / Aydın, Kuşadası / Aydın, Ödemiş / İzmir, Ayvalık / Balıkesir, Kemalpaşa / İzmir, Lapseki / Çanakkale
24 December: Aydın, Dikili / İzmir, Ezine / Çanakkale, Demre / Antalya
31 December: Çine / Aydın, Gömeç / Balıkesir, Sarayköy / Denizli
7 January: İncirliova / Aydın, Bodrum, Harmandalı / İzmir
13 January: Germencik / Aydın
14 January: Germencik / Aydın, Menemen / İzmir, Bayramiç / Çanakkale
21 January: Yatağan / Muğla, Selçuk / İzmir, Çanakkale
28 January: Sultanhisar / Aydın, Selimiye / Muğla, Tire / İzmir
4 February: Söke / Aydın, Yenipazar / Aydın, Torbalı / İzmir, Biga / Çanakkale
11 February: Kuyucak / Aydın, Milas / Muğla, Bergama / İzmir, Edremit / Balıkesir
18 February: Nazilli / Aydın, Çine / Aydın, Havran / Balıkesir, Sındırgı / Balıkesir, Poyracık / İzmir
25 February: Bozdoğan / Aydın, Didim / Aydın, Salihli / Manisa, Denizli, Çan / Çanakkale
04 March: Köşk / Aydın, Bayraklı / İzmir, Ayvacık / Çanakkale, Altınova / Balıkesir, Karacaören / Çanakkale
11 March: Bağarası / Aydın, Etili / Çanakkale, Çal / Denizli, Buldan / Denizli
18 March: Ortaklar / Aydın, Karacasu / Aydın, Gökkaya / Manisa
25 March: Akçaova / Aydın, Pınarbaşı / İzmir, Salihli / Manisa, Saraycık / Çanakkale, Kozak / İzmir
Have you ever been to the Camel Wrestling in Turkey? Comment below and tell us more about your experience.
