The Untold Story of an African in Turkey

By Bairma Kihoro People have always been crossing borders. Not just geographical, but social, cultural and psychological ones as well. Everyone has their own dramas,...

Review: Sutra Visits Zorlu Performing Arts Center

One of the highlights of my incredible solo backpacking trip around China in the winter of 2012 was seeing a traditional kung fu performance...

The Top 5 Yeşilçam Films

Yeşilçam, which translates to “Green Pine”, is a shorthand for Turkey's old film industry. The name comes from Yeşilçam Street, an area of Beyoğlu...

Sketching Istanbul’s Hans Part 2: Rüstem Paşa Han

Emilie Varlet and Gabrielle Reeves began exploring Istanbul's hans in the summer of 2014, when they first started their sketching adventures in the city. They have...

Book Review: Mark Wyers’ “Wicked Istanbul”

Fun Fact: There are around 60 state-run brothels in Turkey. This may be surprising given Turkey’s reputation as a conservative, rather religious country. So,...

Top 5 Bookshops in Istanbul

Istanbul sure does have a lot to offer when it comes to the world of books - there are boutique retailers, hidden stores, retail...

Famous Turks: The Mysticism of Mevlana Celaladdin Rumi

In this month’s ‘Famous Turk’ article, we’re looking at Mevlana – known more popularly in the English-speaking world as ‘Rumi’ – the Anatolian philosopher...

Turkey’s Pickle Culture

For a long time there has been a culture struggling to make itself known, to have its voice heard. Often relegated to the sidelines,...

Beers of Turkey – Then and Now

Beer, one of the oldest alcoholic beverages known to mankind, can be very nutritional when consumed in moderation, and therefore has the well-earned name...

Rakı Dos and Don’ts

On warm nights in Istanbul everyone is out. Restaurants open their doors onto the sidewalks of back streets, creating a maze of tables and...

Ibrahim Tatlıses for Beginners

It started as good a time as any – on a dolmuş to Hasankeyif with a crate of live chickens on my lap. I...

Müslüm Gürses and The Rise of Arabesk

“Çilesiz bir günüm olmadı gitti Bilmedim ömrümün suçu ne usta Allah'ın gücüne gider mi bilmem Verdiği bu candan ben bıktım usta My carefree days never came I don’t know,...

Kurban Bayramı: A Guide to “Sacrifice Feast” in Istanbul

If you are a fellow yabangee and have been noticing pictures of cattle hanging around in the streets lately, don’t worry. You haven’t stumbled...

The Pursuit of Happiness in the ‘Bul

In this megacity, which delivers stress in seemingly increasing dosages year by year, I’m realizing that it is essential to wear a different pair...

Istanbul’s Hidden Architecture: The Camondo Stairs

Strolling through Istanbul requires two basic skills: a good sense of direction and a strong pair of legs. The steep hills and windy streets...

Ancient Love Affair: Carian Project, a Self-Initiated Artist Residency

After moving from Istanbul to the small village of Turunç in southwest Turkey’s Muğla region, I finally had the time and energy to explore...

The Woman Married to Mount Nemrut

In late 1881, the Prussian Academy of Sciences in Berlin received a strange letter from the German Consul of Izmir, mentioning some mysterious statues...

Istanbul Street Names: The Stories They Tell

Having only laid claim to most of their monikers since the declaration of the Republic, Istanbul’s street names often go unnoticed (highly due to...

Underground Istanbul, Where the Sun Doesn’t Shine

Cities like Istanbul stand alternatively as testaments to humanity's sustained success and survival and to its limitless culture of waste and forgetfulness. While Newton...

Levantine Lessons: Discovering Syria in Istanbul

“Light is more important than the lantern, The poem more important than the notebook” ― Syrian poet, Nizar Qabbani To the general public, Syria has become...

Camel Wrestling in the Land of the Efe

Camel wrestling is, in a word, raucous. Smoke permeates every inch of the earthen amphitheater, so much so that it is difficult to make...

Christmas & New Year’s in Turkey: Mixing Celebrations

In Istanbul, when December arrives, you might observe a sudden change in the streets. Decorations hung up on the poles in the shape of...

The Creme de la Kaymak of Eccentric and Interesting Expat Istanbulites

Someone recently described Istanbul to me as a city where you can "have the best day of your life, followed by the worst day”,...

Barış Manço: 10-Song Starter Kit

How does one explain Barış Manço?  He is kind of like the Turkish John Denver, but with the notoriety of John Lennon and a...