Though I have only been living on the Asian (apparently the locals prefer “Anatolian”) side of Istanbul for a few months, I have been coming here on and off for years. During that time, I’ve found a few drinking spots to call my own. In seeking favourable imbibing establishments, I look for whether they:
- Have a relatively broad selection of drinks
- Employ convincingly friendly staff
- Provide comfortable seating
- Create an atmosphere conducive to merriment
It has often baffled me that would-be landlords, having invested money, time and effort into building a bar, secure their own failure by ignoring small but crucial details. For example, it isn’t a wise move to crank up some awful music just after the punter has purchased their drink, in what at first seemed like a quiet place. If the music wasn’t blaring when they came in, it is unlikely to be the reason they’re there! Anyhow, rant aside, here are my recommendations:
Viktor Levi: My favourite spot, without a doubt, is Viktor Levi Wine House (Viktor Levi Şarapevi) in Kadıköy. I may regret sharing this little gem in the long run, but it’s too good to keep secret. A wine bar since it’s opening in 1914, Viktor Levi is tucked away but not out of the way. It is home to one of the best outdoor seating areas I have ever encountered, with wrought-iron furniture and leafy trees overhead. Plus, the fact that the staff are friendly, helpful and agreeably discreet doesn’t hurt either. Add to all that the genuinely well-considered music at a non-intrusive volume and it is amazing that this place isn’t overrun with people. While it can get quite packed some nights, it’s the perfect place for an afternoon skinful.
Kafka Cafe: Also located in Kadıköy, Kafka Cafe has a pretty fantastic view (if you look past the massive car park below) and a welcoming atmosphere. Drinks were a little pricey if memory serves, and the clientele I recall being somewhat pretentious, but it’s certainly worth a visit in the early evening, when you will be able to enjoy a beautiful sunset against the Istanbul skyline.
The Old English Pub: Kadıköy, of course, isn’t the only spot over here where one can enjoy a relaxing drink. It may have the highest concentration of watering holes, but quality over quantity is my motto. Should you find yourself in Suadiye and at a loose end you could do worse than have a beer in The Old English Pub, opposite Marks and Sparks. The location of this place means it will get noisy from time to time, not least because of those car owners who insist on revving and accelerating their absurdly expensive vehicles within earshot (a personal peeve of mine along with blaring car horns). If you can ignore that then the comfortable seats, impressive decor and (sometimes over-) enthusiastic staff should suitably impress you.
The North Shield: Finally, for now, I feel I should mention The North Shield. Although I’m not a fan of chain pubs, I recently found myself a patron of The North Shield on Bağdat Caddesi and had to eat some humble pie. Truly the Guinness is quite pricey at 22 TL a pop, but the staff — at least on that particular night — were fantastic. My associate, a football fan, wanted to watch some club game from the UK but resigned himself to watching whatever Turkish sporting event was on TV. Figuring it was worth a shot, I asked if we could watch the club match and a staff member went off to see what he could do. He soon returned with an update — this particular game wasn’t starting for another thirty minutes but he assured us it could be selected for ‘our’ viewing pleasure. While I wasn’t particularly fussed about the match, I was impressed by the fact that the staff here would go the extra mile just so my friend could watch his team play. And all of this on top of finding us a seat outside, tucked quietly away from group birthday parties and loving couples. Service like that is not something to be ignored.
It’s reassuring to know that one can enjoy a drink in a variety of spots without having to pop over to the other ‘collar’ (another recent discovery, Turks call them the European and Anatolian collars (yaka) not sides – how about that). But I’m sure to have missed some hidden gems — so tell me, where’s your favorite watering hole on the Anatolian yakası?
Eamon McHugh is a contributor to Yabangee
