There is one thing that most expats in Istanbul can agree upon… they miss Mexican food. Its not even like most Mexican dishes are that hard to make at home, but you need the ingredients, and those are few and far between. Cilantro, limes, avocados, corn tortillas, fresh jalapenos.
There are a few Mexican restaurants in Istanbul, and having never been to one before Picante, I will not speak as to their authenticity, but I am aware that none have even a single Mexican employee, let alone an immigrant family dishing out home-brewed mole and a grandma sitting on the floor watching soap operas and hand-pressing fresh tortillas. Not that you need those things to enjoy a good meal, but it helps.
Picante is in Beyoğlu, has been open for 20 years, and is still going strong. Owner Hakan lived and was trained as a chef in the States, and expresses a healthy discontent towards the available selection of exotic ingredients in Turkey. They do make their own corn tortillas, but they are unable to import the masa harina corn meal which is produced using lime to loosen the hulls and gives a particular flavor. That said, the chips and salsa I started with were the real deal and tasted very good, especially after I grabbed some of the excess salt from my michelada glass and sprinkled it on them.
Wait wait, wtf is michelada? Its beer with hot sauce. didn’t know that already? Then you didn’t waste enough of your youth destroying your liver in Tijuana.
Thingamagigs come next. I asked Hakan what his favorite food on the menu was and he didn’t hesitate to say chimichangas. It’s nice when a restaurateur takes some pride in their food. A chimichangas is sort of like a deep-fried burrito, though this one was just pan fried, it was crispy on the outside and melty on the inside, with less calories. The innards of cheese, surprisingly tender beef slices, and tons of onions and peppers, were melted together, and the salsa, guac, and “sour cream” (whipped up yogurt) really hit the spot. Later I tasted a margarita and it was easily the best I have had in Istanbul.
No one is trying to tell you Picante is just like Mexico, but that’s ok. It is Tex-mex which has been tweaked for the Turkish taste, i.e. less cilantro, less spicy, more boring. The food is good, and the staff are happy to regale you (in fluent English) with stories of teyzes rapidly dissecting their burritos with fork and knife, or macho apaçis who are sure they can take that imported habanero sauce in stride. Don’t forget to check in on Foursquare for your free tequila shot, and leave a review on Tripadvisor for 20% your bill.
Asmalımescit Mah. General Yazgan Sok. No: 8/B
0212 252 47 53
Louis Herman is a contributor for Yabangee. He keeps a blog about the restaurants and food culture of Sirkeci, Istanbul, at www.sirkecirestaurants.com.
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