People often ask me how I manage as a vegetarian in Istanbul, and are shocked when I tell them it’s not really that difficult. I’ve found that people who eat meat exaggerate the difficulties of a vegetarian lifestyle and, since I’ve been one since I was fourteen, meat holds no appeal for me anymore. Whatever difficulties I may encounter finding vegetarian food, going back after almost 20 years seems much more daunting. I stopped eating meat after reading about the egregious treatment and exploitation of animals on factory farms and the pollution and deforestation in the meat industry, and how meat consumption contributes to global warming. Later, in college, I began studying and practicing Zen Buddhism intensively as a way of understanding the universe and confronting life’s challenges, and those principles reinforced my intention to live without meat.
In Buddhism, the goal is to cultivate our seeds of mindfulness and compassion, and avoiding meat has helped me feel more at peace with myself and stable in my own skin, and this has a ripple effect on the people around me. And for any meat eaters reading this, please remember that simply reducing your meat consumption is already a step toward greater global harmony and alleviating global warming. Another Buddhist principle states that, no matter what point you’re at right now, it’s a wonderful place to begin.
The following is a list of restaurants I have found that offer extensive vegetarian options. I have tried to include a variety of cuisines and cooking styles to show that eliminating meat from your diet doesn’t mean you’re eating the same boring food incessantly. Please keep in mind that I still eat dairy, honey, and occasionally eggs, so if you are a vegan, some places may not offer much, or you may have to inquire about vegan options. However, the list can still be of use to you. Even for vegans, though, options in the city are expanding. Some branches of Mado now offer vegan ice cream and many shops now sell vegan cheese, mayonnaise, and even imitation döner kebap.
Tahin
This Lebanese falafel grill features several different hummus blends, as well as two different vegan platter combinations. Veggie options include tabbouleh (parsley and lemon salad), nar mutabbal (eggplant and pomegranate spread), flat bread with zaatar (a spice mixture of dried sumac, sesame seeds, hyssop, and olive oil), and if you eat dairy, labne (strained yogurt spread with herbs). The restaurant has five locations throughout the city and may deliver to your apartment through Yemeksepeti.
Tahin has five locations in Maslak, Moda, Karaköy, Rumelihisarüstü, and Nişantaşı. For more information, visit the official website.
Çiya Kebap and Çiya Sofrası
Even if you’re tired of Turkish food, this cluster of three Turkish restaurants is well worth visiting. The owners are known for seeking out unusual dishes in different regions throughout Anatolia and cooking with high quality ingredients. There is outdoor seating and a self-service buffet as well as a set menu. The best deal for vegetarians is to go to the self service section, which consistently contains hummus, patlıcan tarator (eggplant and yogurt spread), muharrama (cheese, walnut, and red pepper spread), beet salads, and, of course, dolmas as well as a few delicious surprise dishes. Just grab a plate and dig in.
Çiya has three locations, all on Güneşli Bahçe Sokak in Kadıköy. Çiya Sofrası, located at number 43, has the most options for vegetarians and vegans. Look for the self service, which has a completely vegetarian section toward the staircase. Some foods may contain cheese, butter or yogurt. You will be charged based on the weight of the plate.
Musafir
This lively Indian has several options not found at other Indian places in the city, such as baingan bharta (smoked spicy eggplant). They also offer several options for naan bread, paneer tikka masala (cheese in spiced, creamy tomato sauce) biryani rice, and desserts. They also offer decadent Indian desserts, such as kheer (spiced rice pudding).
Musafir is located at Recep Paşa Cd. 7/C close to the Taksim metro stop.
Aladdin
Another Indian/Pakistani restaurant inside the Grand Star hotel in the Taksim area, veggie options include channa masala (spiced chickpeas) and vegetable biryani. Meat options can be made vegetarian (although the substitute may be cheese) if requested.
Aladdin is located at the Grand Star Hotel on Siraselviler Caddesi No 45.
Habesha
Finally reopened after much waiting, Istanbul’s first Ethiopian restaurant is back. Habesha offers enormous vegetarian platters of misir wat (spicy lentils), shiro wat (ground chickpeas with garlic), beets, carrots, and of course served with spongy injera bread. The vegetables are flavored with the lovely spice mixture berbere which leaves sensuous, yet strong flavors on the tongue. Of course, eating with your hands while using this bread is the traditional way. Don’t miss the authentic Ethiopian coffee served from a traditional jebena vessel. Sometimes, you can catch Ethiopian dance performances.
Habesha is located at Ekrem Tur Sk. No:5 in Taksim area.
Yüksel Uygur Restaurant
The Uyghur cuisine is completely halal and heavily influenced by Han Chinese cuisine. This Uyghur place offers several vegan dishes with tofu, eggplant, black mushrooms, and green peppers served with traditional black tea. All dishes taste delicious with lagman flat noodles.
Yüksel Uygur Restaurant is located at Turgut Özal Millet Cd 21/A near the Yusufpaşa tram stop.
Böcek
This attractive cafe is very popular among young people in the neighborhood and features several vegetarian and vegan options for pizzas, breakfast, pasta, and desserts. The vegan breakfast platter (available all day), which features hummus, fresh fruit and vegan sausages, is a particularly festive option. Sometimes live music and theater events are held there as well.
Böcek is located at Bademaltı Sk. 17/A in Kadıköy.
Story Coffee
Right next to Böcek, this charming cafe offers many vegetarian breakfast options, including pancakes, breakfast burritos, and meatless Turkish breakfast platters. Many dishes that include meat can be made vegetarian upon request. They also have several coffee and tea options, including tasty chai latte with Indian spices.
Story Coffee is located at Dalga Sk. No:22 in Kadıköy.
Chaya
Chaya offers several vegetarian and vegan options, including veggie burgers, vegetarian mantı, sandwiches, and breakfast platters. But of course the main attraction is the eclectic selection of teas served in elegant traditional Chinese teapots. Options include rooibos, green, white, oolong, and black teas in a huge variety of blends and flavors, including Moroccan mint tea and Chinese lapsang souchong (black breakfast tea).
Chaya Galata is located at Şahkulu Bostan Sokak, No 22/A near the Şişhane metro stop. Chaya Moda is located at Bademaltı Sk. 17/B in Kadıköy.
Mahatma
Completely vegetarian and featuring many vegan options, Mahatma specializes in Middle Eastern and Turkish cooking. Options include falafel plates and vegetarian menemen and börek.
Mahatma is located at Macit Erbudak Sk. 50/A in Kadıköy.
Çok Çok Thai
This Thai restaurant offers a variety of refreshingly spicy curries (including massaman peanut, green and red curries), noodle dishes, and decadent Thai iced teas. Many dishes that contain meat can be improvised with tofu and vegetables on request.
Çok Çok Thai is located at Meşrutiyet Cd. 51/A in Kadıköy near the Şişhane metro stop. For more information, read Yabangee’s review of Çok Çok Thai.
Cafe MU
A small cafe in Kadıköy, Cafe MU features an eclectic tea menu, including ayurvedic tea, Indian masala chai, Chinese white tea and matcha green tea lattes. Dining options include vegetarian breakfast places and vegan cookies. Coffees can be flavored with infusions such as pumpkin, chocolate, chili and orange.
Cafe MU is located at Karakolhane Cad. No:46/A in Kadıköy off of Uzun Hafız Sokak.
Benazio
Right next to Cafe MU, this cafe includes vegetarian breakfast plates with mung beans, zaatar, tahin pekmez (sesame seed paste and grape syrup), fresh jams, rich cheeses and succulent black olives. Vegetarian sandwiches, flavored coffee drinks (including a stimulating Mexican style ice chili mocha) and a wide tea selection.
Benazio is located at Karakolhane Cd. No 48/A in Kadıköy off of Uzun Hafız Sokak.
Yer
Perhaps one of the most innovative restaurants in Istanbul, this charming bar and restaurant in Kadıköy offers several creative sandwiches and salads with exotic ingredients, such as quinoa, mung beans, avocado, and wild mushrooms. These include a quinoa-based veggie burger.
Yer is located at Ferit Tek Sokak, No 25/A on the edge of Moda.
For more information on where to find ingredients for cooking at home, read my article on the subject, as well as the comments that follow. As always, feel free to share suggestions in the comments section.
All photos courtesy of Aladdin and Çok Çok Thai.
