Sometimes the sights, sounds, and smells of Istanbul get a bit too overwhelming and an escape is needed from this “City of Cities”. For a particularly beautiful getaway, I recommend visiting the island of Gökçeada (known as Imbros in Greek), which is the westernmost point of Turkey and only accessible by ferry. I have been to Gökçeada twice during the past 4 ½ years and what really stands out for me is its lush beauty and serene stillness, as well as its sense of living history. Outside of the Princes’ Islands in the Marmara, there are not many islands near the vicinity of Istanbul. Gökçeada – and its slightly smaller neighbor, Bozcaada (where the annual marathon is held) – is one of these few islands and definitely deserves a visit.
Getting to Gökçeada takes a little effort, but is well worth it for the peaceful relaxation, contemplation, or exercise and exploration. Probably the best and most convenient way to get around Gökçeada is by car. I always rent a car from Atatürk International Airport, which makes it easy to both pick up and drop off, rather than hunt around for different locations in the city. There are many car rental agencies at the airport, making it possible to shop around for the best offer. If you rent during the off-season or for a longer period of time, the price is usually cheaper per day.
After you rent a car, you will drive west from the city towards Edirne. On the way to Edirne, there is an intersection with a turn-off towards Çanakkale – this is the way to Gökçeada. Passing through Keşan and Gallipoli you will be able to see lovely forests and green areas, as well as more wide open expanses of land. Within 3-4 hours of leaving Istanbul, you should see a sign pointing towards Gökçeada. You will take the road until you get to the pier and harbor of Kabatepe. This is where vehicles line up to board the ferry to the island. After you park, make sure to buy a ticket to get on the boat and don’t wait until the last minute like some drivers do – I’ve seen the stress and traffic this can cause – and it’s not pretty! You can find the departure and arrival schedule for Gökçeada on the Istanbul Deniz Otobüsleri (Istanbul Sea Ferry) website.
The amount of people you see on the ferry and island depends on whether you visit during the high season or low season. I have been to the island in April and August, and there were considerably more people during the summertime. However, if you visit during the off season, many restaurants and cafes may be shuttered, so you might have to scramble around a bit to find a bite to eat.
Gökçeada is small enough to be explored during a weekend, but you need a good base to explore from. I recommend staying in the main city, Kaleköy, which is located in the north of the island. Kaleköy has wonderful stores and shops as well as exquisite fish restaurants, which serve fish caught fresh on the same day. One of my favorite fish restaurants in Kaleköy is Son Vapur (Last Ship), a meyhane where you can enjoy local fish such as mercan (sea bream), accompanied with a salad delectably decorated with locally made products and washed down with Barba Yorgo wine, a staple on Gökçeada.
For a weekend itinerary, I recommend starting early in the morning and walking up to the upper village of Kaleköy. This area consists of stone houses, many of which have been converted into pensions and hostels. In the upper village, you can get a sense of how life was for the island’s Greek inhabitants, who were the majority of the population until the 1960s. At the top, there are wonderful views of the Aegean and you can see as far as Greece. There are also the ruins of an old fortress and churches to explore. One of the local success stories as been the restoration of an old Sts. Marinas Greek Orthodox Church in the upper village of Kaleköy.
Continuing south from Kaleköy, I recommend stopping at the villages of Zeytinli and Tepeköy. In Zeytinli, I encountered a local artist painting scenes of the island. The village is also famous for its damla sakızlı muhallebi (mastik pudding).
Moving on, some of the best views of the island can be found in the village of Tepeköy, which is also home to the local winery Barba Yorgo. Both its red and white wines make the trip to this village quite worthwhile. While walking around Tepeköy, you can see an old Greek Orthodox Church and get a feel for the inhabitants’ lives through their stone houses. Frequently, you will see cars with Greek license plates, which belong to the children and grandchildren of the original inhabitants of the village. The village also contains an old Greek cemetery, where local residents have been buried for over 100 years.
Dereköy is also a must-see on any visit to Gökçeada. Visiting Dereköy, you can get a sense of how island life must have been. The village is primarily an abandoned Greek village. Its definitely worth walking around, exploring, and photographing.
Finally, before heading back to Kaleköy, I recommend going to the beaches in the southern part of the island. If you like wind surfing, there is a windsurfing camp center located at Aydıncık Beach. This part of the island is great for not just windsurfing but also swimming in the crystal-clear waters of the Aegean.
Overall, a trip to Gökçeada is well worth the time and effort. Don’t forget to partake of the local delicacies that can be found all over the island. I recommend local wines such as Barba Yorgo, as well as almond cookies, different local jams, tea, honey, thyme and goat cheese (depending on the season). For these and many other reasons, Gökçeada is an island getaway that is worth visiting again and again.
[geo_mashup_map]
