Where can you feel like being on a Greek island without leaving Turkey? Look no further than the beautiful Aegean island of Bozcaada (known as Tenedos in Greek). In an earlier article, I described the charms of its counterpart Gökçeada, which is located north of Çanakkale, whereas Bozcaada is situated west of the city. There is a different feeling to Bozcaada than there is to Gökçeada. While Gökçeada tends to be relatively peaceful and quiet, Bozcaada is its rebellious sibling. Bozcaada is more crowded and filled with more visitors (mostly Turkish) who frequent its exquisite beaches. Also, the island’s climate tends to be much drier than its greener counterpart.
In this article, I will highlight where to stay, eat, and must-see places to visit while on the island. If you are of an athletic bent, I also recommend signing up for the Bozcaada Half Marathon, held annually every May.
To reach Bozcaada from Istanbul, you can take a bus from the Bayrampaşa/Esenler Otogar to Çanakkale. The journey from Istanbul to Çanakkale takes between 4-5 hours and includes a boat crossing of the Dardenelles from Eceabat to Çanakkale. When you get to Çanakkale, go directly to the Çanakkale Otogar. From there, get on the bus that has Bozcaada written on the outside. The ride from Çanakkale to Bozcaada, which takes about an hour, passes through beautiful countryside (including the road to Troy). As you approach the harbor at the end of the road, you will see windmills in the distance, which provide electricity to the area. The last stop is the harbor town of Geyikli, which is where you catch a ferry to Bozcaada. The ride takes about 30 minutes and when arriving at Bozcaada, you will be immediately greeted by the massive Genoan/Venetian castle located just outside the port.
When deciding where to stay in Bozcaada, I recommend staying as close to the town center as possible. The island is not very large, but almost all of the notable restaurants and cafes are located near the harbor. In addition, public transportation departs from the harbor area, so it’s best to stay as close as possible. There are many hostels, pensions, and hotels on Bozcaada. During the high season, accommodation fills up quite quickly and prices are also considerably higher than during the rest of the year. The best times to visit are either during late spring or early fall. There are many older homes which have been converted into charming places to stay. One place I stayed at and recommend is the Nar Bağ Evi. They have two locations; one located outside the town, among the vineyards of the rural area, and the other near the center, which is housed in a renovated Greek konak.
Bozcaada’s charms include its balanced mix of history, culture, and recreation. The island’s main sources of income are generated through fishing and agriculture, which you can observe while walking around the harbor and by taking public transportation around the island. Walking around the streets of the town center, you can get a feel for the less hectic, more relaxed pace of life that Bozcaada offers its residents and visitors.
Among the must-see sights of the island, the Bozcaada Museum and Castle are at the top of the list. The museum, which opened in 2006, has been a labor of love for its founder, M. Hakan Gürüney. It is located in a 130-year-old building previously occupied by a Greek family and is comprised of Mr. Gürüney’s personal collection and acquisitions. If you visit during the summer months, you have the chance of meeting him and talking with him about the island, its people, and history, which I did last summer. Through its artifacts, photographs, and maps, the museum does an exemplary job of telling Bozcaada’s story, from its Ottoman past up until present time.
Mainland Turkey is dotted with wonderful old castles, but its difficult to find one in such fine condition on an island. Bozcaada Castle offers an excellent place to climb, explore, and take picturesque photos of both the city, the island, and the sea. There are old walls, ramparts, and even an old Greek cemetery that are worth exploring. You’ll need about half an hour to do the castle justice, but it’s well worth the visit.
The main draw of Bozcaada is its beaches, which are located in the southern part of the island. One of my favorite beaches is Ayazma. To reach it, you’ll need to take a minibus from the town center. It’s only a 15 minute ride from there to the beach. Usually on summer weekends the beach is packed, so I recommend that you arrive early, go for a nice swim, have a quick snack at the cafe across the road and then you can head back to the town for a little siesta or go explore the rest of the island. Also, located near Ayazma is a small abandoned Greek church, which makes a perfect location for a picnic.
The food of choice on Bozcaada is fish. Many of the better restaurants are located near the main square on Çınar Çarsı Sokak. One of the best on the island is Lodos, which has excellent mezes, salads, and wines. They have a unique style that can’t be found in many other restaurants on the island. It’s not cheap, but you’ll go home feeling satisfied. Be careful if you do decide to eat right by the harbor. The food tends to be much more expensive and you are basically paying for the view.
One of Bozcaada’s many charms is its wines, which many claim to be some of the best in Turkey. There are many vineyards and wineries located all over the island. One of the island’s most famous ones is Talay, which has been making wine since 1948. Many wineries offer tours, in addition to wine-tastings at their stores in town.
A weekend or a week in Bozcaada makes for a memorable experience, one filled with history, culture, relaxation, and unbeatable food and wine. Make sure to include it in your travel plans!
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