With the weather improving and spring right around the corner, many of us are thinking about where to travel within Turkey. There is one place that is not as well visited as others in Turkey; it lies on the Aegean coast and is a great place to go for a weekend escape from Istanbul. That place is Ayvalık.
Ayvalık (ayva is the Turkish word for “quince”) is a 9-10 hour drive from Istanbul. One possible itinerary is driving west from Istanbul to Çanakkale, staying the night in Çanakkale and then driving the next morning to Ayvalık. You could also take a bus from Istanbul to Ayvalık. One of the highlights of visiting this part of Turkey is the long coastline bordering the Aegean Sea. You can understand how important the sea is to communities in this part of Turkey where there are a large number of fishermen and industries related to fishing. Ayvalık and the surrounding region are also known for producing olives and olive oil, and you’ll see many stores selling products relating to olives within and around Ayvalık.
The town of Ayvalık itself is not very large (less than 40,000 people). Since it lies between Istanbul and Izmir on the Aegean coast, it has tourists and people who come for the weekend, but there aren’t nearly as many as you’ll find further south. Traditionally, Ayvalık was a predominantly Greek village known as Kydonis or Ayvali by the local Greek population. One legacy of the population exchange of 1923 is that the Greek population left behind a magnificent collection of buildings including old churches and schools that can be explored on the nearby Alibey (Cunda) Island, which is accessible by foot or local transportation (ferry and bus) from the city center.
Locals refer to the island as Cunda, and this area is worth exploring for a full day. There are wonderful old Greek houses (where I stayed and recommend for a night or two, however they can be quite pricey during the high season). Also, the Koç Foundatıon is currently restoring a number of older Greek structures in the area, including Ayios Yiannis Church, located on a hill overlooking the old city of Cunda and featuring unforgettable views of the island; a visit here is well worth your time. So far they have done a remarkable job restoring the church’s chapel into a library (known as the Sevim and Necdet City Library), and there is a large cafe right outside the church where you can grab a drink and a bite to eat.
Other highlights of visiting Cunda include exploring the massive Taksiyarhis Church located closer to the harbor. There is also a large historic school building located in the same area that is fun to poke around. When I was there in the summer, there were posters and signs advertising a Turkish-Greek friendship festival that featured a number of musical events. At night, I recommend eating dinner in the harbor and main street of Cunda, which stretches along the seashore. Here you can enjoy wonderful fresh fish, lokma (little balls of dough sprinkled with cinnamon, which are unique to the area), as well as peruse a variety of arts and crafts stores selling work by local artists.
The surrounding area also features treasures of the area as well. Şeytan Sofrası (Devil’s Table), which is located a bit outside of Ayvalık and is accessible by bus, offers great views of the surrounding area. Also, as the story goes, it is where the devil supposedly left his footprint before jumping over to the nearby island of Lesbos, directly opposite Ayvalık. There are also beaches and sites, including forests and monasteries, in the local vicinity that are a little more off the beaten path. Although, that does not mean they are always empty and ripe for exploring. When I was last there I went to a monastery that was a bit out of the way, only to find it closed and full of security guards.
Overall, a weekend in Ayvalık and its surroundings will make for a pleasant escape from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul. While I love the pace of life here, I recognize the need for a brief respite every now and then to charge my batteries. Ayvalık has the charm and quaintness of a small town, while also boasting an intriguing history, architecture, food, and numerous outdoor activities. So not only will you be able to kick back and relax, but you’ll also have the chance to explore a region with both a fascinating history and impressive natural sites.
Kosta Dalageorgas is a contributor to Yabangee.
