Top 5 Istanbul Tea Gardens

Çay is the traditional black tea of Turkey… and one of my favorite things about day-to-day life in this country.  Even if you are more of a coffee drinker, it is difficult not to fall into this iconic aspect of Turkish culture.  Tea gardens are ubiquitous in Istanbul, and each offers a uniquely beautiful atmosphere.  I often get swept up in the various views of the city while enjoying a hot glass of this caffeine-packed elixir, and with listening to the never-ending sound of clinking spoons and vibrant conversation.  After several years of exploring Istanbul, I have composed a list of my top 5 favorite spots for çay.

1. Pierre Loti

Pierre Loti, named after the french author who lived in Istanbul for many years, sits above the historic Eyüp Cemetery and offers an outstanding view of the Golden Horn.  I like to take the ferry from Eminönü which criss-crosses up the Golden Horn and ends at Eyüp.  From there, you can follow the path leading uphill, though the cemetery and ending with a spectacular spread of tables, shaded by trees.  This is one of my favorite places to read, sketch or simply enjoy the view as I drink my çay and eat a snack.

2. Archaeological Museum

A unique place to enjoy a hot çay is the tea garden in the courtyard of the Archaeological Museum.  Bask in the cool air amongst stone buildings and scattered ancient artifacts while watching bright green parrots fly above you in the trees.  Since becoming a resident of Turkey, all I need to do is pass through the entrance with my museum card to take advantage of this serene place with or without visiting the museum.

3. Firuzağa

If you are craving a busy atmosphere, then hanging out in Cihangir next to the Firuzağa  Cami can provide plenty of bustle.  This is a wonderful place to meet friends, watch the medley of passing pedestrians, relax after a long walk through Beyoğlu or have a late night snack with tea or coffee.  It is the perfect meeting point, a place to gather yourself on your way to or from anywhere while offering a taste of modern day Beyoğlu.

4. Moda Tea Garden

Sprawled along the seaside in Kadıköy is the Moda Çay Bahçesi.  Although a bit far for one who lives on the European side, this garden’s peaceful atmosphere is worth the ferry ride.  It’s an ideal place to sit on a lazy Sunday, for reading a nice book or meeting with friends for a birthday party or farewell brunch.

5. Fındıklı Park

Directly off the Fındıklı tram stop and across the road is a scatter of tables and plastic chairs along the Bosporus.  Here you can watch the waves splashing onto the sidewalk, ships cruising up and down the straight and enjoy a tost on a cold day — or an ice cream in the hot sun.  Although less glamorous than other tea gardens, this is a low-key place where the çay is cheap and the view unbeatable.  I like to come here on rainy days, sit under the tarps and keep my hands warm with a hot glass of tea.

Gabrielle Reeves is a contributor to Yabangee.