One might be surprised to learn an unassuming turn off Istiklal, down an unusually silent path featuring several slumbering cats, and proceeding through an ever-narrowing walkway eventually opens up to one of the most distinctly memorable areas of Beyoğlu. Here, nestled in a dignified, historic building across from the visually remarkable Italian Consulate and equally impressive French Courthouse, is Nicole – acclaimed as one of the world’s best restaurants and certainly one of the most compelling, sophisticated culinary experiences to be had in Turkey. The passion of chef-owner Aylin Yazıcıoğlu is evident not only in the impressive decor and inviting ambiance that first greets arrivals, but in the very essence of the dining process from start to finish. In establishing Nicole seven years ago, she has built on her notable and international culinary background, which includes her time at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and accomplished the remarkable feat of rivaling Europe’s finest dining establishments from in her home country.
In the same vein as its neighbors, the building boasts a rich history. A Franciscan monastery until the 20th century, the facilities were once under the guidance of Agnes Marthe Nicole, the last head nun to lead the maison des garde-malades des soeurs franciscaines (‘home of the Franciscan Sisters nurses’) in caring for the elderly and those in need. When looking beyond the modern internal design, one can quite clearly imagine what it may have been like in the very same halls those many years ago. In learning of Agnes’ story, Aylin named her restaurant after her and in doing so, pays tribute to both her life and the building’s illustrious past. When asked, Aylin went on to say she very much feels the spirit of the building lives on today.
Upon entering the building, one is immediately struck by the elegance of the decor. Passing by contemporary works of art touching on some of Istanbul’s most historic sites and to the elevator, guests venture up to the terrace floor housing the restaurant itself. In arriving to Nicole, one is immediately taken by the transparent walls on the far side overlooking the iconic Bosphorus, with lush green trees in the foreground and birds chirping overhead. Intimate in size, a dozen or so tables are scattered about, all with a prime view and offering plenty of space between tables for comfortable, private conversation. Passing a display of the many fine wines on offer and the reception, one can also look into the kitchens where the evening’s culinary magic is taking place. Working closely with young chefs, Aylin strives to prepare them for future culinary ambitions and ensures that universal standards are pursued and appreciated.
Taking my seat, I was prepared for something new and exciting, as this type of fine dining experience is not something I typically have the opportunity to take on. The soothing vocals of Rhye drifting throughout the space offered a familiar, comforting backdrop as our host went through the evening’s menu with us. The menus are changed every six weeks, as Aylin aims to emphasize the flow of nature and match the changing of the seasons with fresh ingredients. Putting full faith in Nicole’s reputation, I accepted that the tasting menu would take me in directions unfamiliar to me.
Such an adventure was immediately made clear with the amuse-bouches to start the evening. Sardine tartare with courgette and cucumber, duck terrine with mahleb tuile and cranberry puree, and cucumber gazpacho with dill were brought out in turn – each laid out on distinctly different dishware and with an impressive flourish for presentation. Making a conscious effort to eat slowly, I made a personal promise to myself to focus on appreciating the various tastes on hand – which was rather easy to fulfill with each delectable bite. The gazpacho was undoubtedly the best I’ve ever had, and the only rationale I can think for a humble dish being so divine is that the ingredients must be carefully sourced for such flavor.
After a caramelized onion brioche served with homemade sourdough bread (and some surprise at how even the bread seemed to surpass expectation), then came the more substantial plates of the evening. Monkfish with sauce bearnaise and aromatic herbs preceded a healthy portion of octopus with eggplant, tomato, and pepper. A dedicated fan of octopus, I quickly realized this was beyond what I’d ever received at any meyhane, which prompted me to try and savor the dish as long as possible. The accompanying black puree was particularly delicious and when unable to place it, our charming server informed that it was aubergine with the inclusion of the skin to provide the distinct color and flavoring. Closing off the lead-ins came a savory artichoke heart served with house cured smoked salmon, salmon roe, and peas that left me feeling positively different about artichoke. As I polished off yet another delicately presented plate, I prepared myself for a main course I expected would put an exclamation point on such a memorable meal.
With the option of choosing either lamb or fish of the day, I opted for the meatier of the options. Soon thereafter, I was greeted with perhaps the evening’s largest and most surprising dish – a big, carefully cooked portion of lamb side by side with künefe covered in smoked yogurt and pistachio. Cautiously uncertain of the pairing, I trusted their superior culinary understanding and went for a bite of künefe. Filled with a delicious lamb filling, the smoked yogurt and sprinkled pistachio was simply fantastic. Moving in a disciplined fashion between the two portions, it was as delightful as I could have imagined. Upon request, the dish was paired with a complementary 2016 Shiraz from Manisa in Turkey’s Aegean region, which added a lovely touch to the course and offered a dose of relaxation as dessert loomed.
By now, the restaurant was largely full of couples and groups of friends, most of whom were internationals one assumes were there on various celebratory holidays. The atmosphere was mirthful and composed as I reached the two-hour mark, and it was then I realized why the hours of Nicole were from 18:30 to 21:30, as such an ambitious tasting menu experience is time consuming in the best of ways. Those just arriving for dinner would likely be here to at least midnight.
By now, I expected dessert to be amazing and true to form, it most certainly was. First came an apricot dish with labneh and granola, followed by a strawberry millefeuille, and concluding with petit-fours and an appropriately timed coffee or tea depending on preference. Generally lacking a sweet tooth, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy the millefeuille as much as I did, but it was genuinely magnificent. Each bite was a flaky, flavorsome journey into sugary, strawberry bliss.
After three hours and what seemed like an endless flurry of praiseworthy dishes, I had done it – I had reached the finish line. Among my most noteworthy impressions was simply the fact that every ingredient seemed expertly chosen and so notably fresh and flavorsome, that I needed to rethink my entire approach to grocery shopping. Beyond this, I found myself especially taken aback by how much presentation influenced my perception of the dishes in a positive way – clearly an art in and of itself. The elegance of the restaurant and sophistication of the menu may have slightly intimidated upon arrival, but the evening concluded in comfort and sincere appreciation. Aylin Yazıcıoğlu has managed to achieve something here that doesn’t compare to any other dining experience in Istanbul, and while it most certainly caters to the high-end circuit, it’s worth setting aside a special evening to indulge for oneself.
Address: Tomtom, Tomtom Kaptan Sk. No:18, 34433 Beyoğlu
Images courtesy of Besiana Hoxha.
