For those happy with Turkish cuisine, finding a place to eat in Istanbul is easy enough with plenty of options in every neighborhood and seemingly hundreds more that deliver. On the other hand, for those seeking a bit of foreign food to satisfy their appetite, or facing some dietary restricted choices like requiring vegetarian or vegan options, the situation becomes a bit more complex. So when you do finally find a place you love that offers some foreign delights and/or meets dietary needs, you want to shout it from the (seven) hilltops for all to hear… and it is such with Kem Kum Egyptian Vegan restaurant in Kadıköy’s Moda district.
Kem Kum is a family-owned establishment, run by a wonderfully charming married couple, Marwa (Egyptian) and Hasan (Turkish), alongside their adorable dog Oscar. Specializing in delicious, fresh Egyptian food, expertly made, and all entirely vegan, it’s a must-visit for those regularly seeking out quality ethnic food in the city, as well as those who opt for cruelty-free and sustainable food options.
Nestled on a quiet, residential Moda side street, Kem Kum is an easy walk from Moda Merkez, or the ferries if making the cross-continental journey. A cozy establishment, those wanting to dine there will find tables neatly set outside the restaurant, weather permitting, in front of a colorfully decorated facade. As seating is indeed outdoors and our impeccable hosts wear masks, those minding the precautions related to the pandemic can find comfort in their visit.
After grabbing a seat and sharing a happy exchange with Marwa or Hasan, you’ll have the opportunity to go through their menu of authentic Egyptian cuisine. For those familiar with the country’s dishes, there’s plenty to be excited about. Falafel, for those familiar with the fried patties that have grown in popularity here in recent years, is done a bit differently in Egypt than the chickpea equivalent found in most restaurants here. Instead, Kem Kum makes them with fava beans and a touch of their own healthy magic, destined to please anyone familiar with the Egyptian style. Their mahshi (somewhat similar to Turkish dolma), kabsa (a long-rice dish prepared with several spices, vegetables, and the occasional fruit inclusion), tahini sauce (a delicious, rich paste popular throughout the Middle East), and pickled aubergine are all lovingly made and genuinely appetizing choices.
With that in mind, three dishes in particular really stood out during our meal at Kem Kum as essential experiences for anyone curious about Egyptian food. The first, beautiful in its simplicity, is the Egyptian style pita bread provided with nearly every dish. It’s not surprising to learn that Hasan and Marwa have spent much time mastering the art of bread-making in the build up to Kem Kum’s current success and approach its importance with sincerity. These toasted, light joys pair well with everything and if you can dip it – you definitely should.
In fact, they go best with the stand out dish of our recent visit to Moda – fuul. This originally Egyptian dish has been exported to much of the world and is particularly popular among Arab regions, with the Egyptian style typically making use of fava beans, cumin, oil, garlic, and mashing them into a near-paste state – generally served with some aesthetic garnish. Kem Kum’s version is hands down the best I’ve experienced in Turkey and elicits many memories of the same dish being shared at crowded tables in Cairo.
Likely the most iconic dish for those intent on exploring Egyptian cuisine however, is koshary. The country’s national dish, Kem Kum’s adaptation features three types of pasta, short grain rice, simmered chickpeas and lentils, a slow cooked special tomato sauce, fried onions, chili sauce, and garlic vinegar dakka – all aesthetically layered and delicious. Rather than a daily offering, you can find koshary at Kem Kum on Saturdays and Sundays only. At only 20 TL, it’s a surefire way to get full, content, and loaded with protein and energy. Regulars will tell you it’s a bit of a weekend destination for fans of the restaurant for this very reason.
There is much more on their menu to be excited about, including an array of drinks and deserts – something we certainly hope to investigate more on future visits. In speaking with Hasan on their menu, it is clear while they hope to offer an authentic array of traditional Egyptian food, they – having been recent converts to veganism themselves – take great pride in providing healthy, tasty food that is totally free of animal products. If you’d like to learn more about a dish and its ingredients, you can be certain they’re keen to share.
Kem Kum also happens to deliver, and are on both Yemeksepeti and Getir, so for those in the area, it’s an easy choice. Boasting 4.9/5 stars on Google Reviews (with 91 submissions), as well as a deservedly impressive score on Yemeksepeti, it’s clear nearly all visitors (or delivery receivers) are notably impressed by their experience.
We look forward to revisiting Kem Kum again soon, and for any prospective visitors, we encourage you to pay a visit to their Instagram page to keep up with their hours, check on any magical dishes that may catch your eye, and to offer your support to this family owned culinary gem. It’s the type of business you’d love to watch grow (and we’re sure they will), because they’ve certainly earned it. Be sure that when you arrive, you can expect a warm greeting, and if you’re lucky, you may even get a hello from the cutest dog in the neighborhood.
Images courtesy of Kem Kum and the author.
