Fıccın: Celebrating Circassia

Turkish cuisine is a blend of many different flavors, aromas, and sights, although it can be easy to forget with Istanbul’s multitude of kebap and döner joints. If you tire of standard Turkish street fare and want to eat authentic Turkish and Anatolian food at a reasonable price, look no further than the exquisite Circassian cuisine of Fıccın in Beyoğlu. Fıccın is located on Kallavi Sokak – walking down Istiklal from Taksim, turn right after you walk past Galatasaray High School. Down Kallavi, there are many places with the name Fıccın written on the outside. I prefer going to the largest one which has a warm, family atmosphere, full of art and various collectibles from Circassia. As you walk in, you’ll see a glass case full of delicious looking desserts such as chocolate puddings and cakes near the door.

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Circassia is the traditional term for the Caucasus region of Russia, which is located between the Black and Caspian Seas. As the Russian Empire expanded, many Circassians were forced to leave and in turn migrated to Anatolia. Inside the main room of Fıccın, there are photographs showing stoic scenes of Circassian village life, with striking colors and distinctive circular buildings dotting the streets.

The menu, which consists of a single sheet full of the dishes of the day, is available in both English and Turkish. Fıccın is known for their mantı, meze (appetizers), and fıccın, the meat pie after which the restaurant is named. The last time I went to Fıccın, I ordered humus, çerkes tavuğu, a roka salad, and kıymalı çerkes mantı (meat dumplings in yogurt sauce). The mantı was quite filling, and the mint and red pepper spices they brought to the table really complemented the dish. Çerkes tavuğu is a delightful spread consisting of chicken and walnuts that goes nicely with the generous portions of bread brought to the table. The menu also occasionally features tulen, which is a traditional Circassian soup made from corn. Another appetizer I recommend is the deniz börülcesi (rock samphire, also known as sea beans) which can often be found at Turkish meyhanes.

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The service at Fıccın is friendly, with waiters who will happily explain in Turkish what you are eating, in case you are curious. This can make for a good experience in practicing your Turkish. Conversely, you can use the English language menu as a guide. Overall, Fıccın is a great place to go to unwind after work, meet a friend for dinner, or have a birthday party or celebration. The prices and tasty food will keep me coming back. For two appetizers, a salad, a main course and a drink, I paid 35 TL, which is quite reasonable for the heart of Beyoğlu. For a great experience, and a place you’ll keep coming back to, consider Fıccın your new hang out destination.

Address: İstiklal Mahallesi, Kallavi Sok. No:13 D:1, 34430 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Telefon: 0212 293 37 86
Email: fccn@ficcin.com

 

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