How to Stop Being Such a Yabancı: 23 Resolutions for 2015

Stop ordering on YemekSepeti cause you’re too scared to order over the phone in Turkish. Stop forcing your friends to call you cause you forgot...

Letters from Istanbul: Avenues & Interludes

One Saturday afternoon in the autumn of 2012, I was walking around Beyoğlu. I don’t spend much time on the European side of Istanbul,...

Your Most Important Vocab Lesson: The Haircut

Sick of leaving Turkish hair salons looking like a 50-year-old, overly done-up newscaster? No matter how much you try to tell hairdressers that you’re...

The Journey of the Istanbul Ferry

Vendors and commuters criss-cross in front of the gates of the dock. My friend and I use the akbil dangles with the circular buttons...

A Guide to Correctly Queuing in Istanbul

A few days ago I was waiting for the bus in the ridiculously long line at Beşiktaş Square - some mornings the line turns...

Yabancı Abroad: When in Rome…Levitate

When we got off the bus at Rome’s Termini Stazion, the first thing we saw was an Istanbul Kebab Shop. My girlfriend Ozge laughed at...

Recap of the Istanbul Marathon

At least it wasn't too hot. That's what I was thinking to myself as I lined up for the 15 km run this past...

Letters from Istanbul: Yeldeğirmeni’s Quiet Renaissance

Author’s note: Last week, I wrote about the stories behind some of Istanbul’s street names, and the week before that I traced some of...

Fig Season

My favorite season in Istanbul is fig season. Never having seen or eaten a fresh fig in my life, I was fascinated by this...

Confused Letters from Istanbul: Rude Sheiks and Mad Rams — A...

It is almost a cliché to say that behind every name in Istanbul there is a story; nevertheless, the saying is true. For instance, I...

Introducing: Turkey Relocation Management Services

From the advertiser: TURKEY Relocation Management Services provides a full range of relocation services to foreign executives and their families with smooth and personalized solutions. Expats...

Letters from Istanbul: City of the Blind (Or, Why You Shouldn’t...

I live in Kadıköy, the “city of the blind.” Have you heard this one? Well, in ancient times, the first Greeks who arrived from Megara set...

Letters from Istanbul: The Anatolian Way

As a yabancı, you probably have your own first impressions of the city. One of my own was made while coming from Ataturk International Airport...

Istanbul Welcomes the Yellow Bouncy Castle

Istanbul attracts all sorts of heroes and magnificent freaks. And I am not talking about Sean Connery or Liam Neeson. Meet Thomas, who calls himself...

Letters from Istanbul: Surrogate Lives

They were three sisters and they had all grown up together in a small town in the south of Turkey. The oldest, and the...

Letters from Istanbul: The Journey of a Tissue Pack

In the city of Istanbul many poor old women sell packets of tissue in the streets, mostly to passing motorists and the people sitting...

Letters from Istanbul: The Sum of Our Travels

The other day I was having lunch at Café Nero with one of the new teachers. She said she came from Austin. Since I grew...

Ibrahim Tatlıses for Beginners

It started as good a time as any – on a dolmuş to Hasankeyif with a crate of live chickens on my lap. I had...

The Heat of Summers Present and Past

I’m pretty sure we hit traffic the first time I visited Ortaköy. I distinctly remember being in a taxi for what felt like ages,...

Smoke on the Water: Istanbul’s Vapurs

With its long and colourful history, its unique geographical position, its collection of characters, cultures, and creeds, Istanbul has no shortage of laudable attributes....

Turtle Conservation Volunteering in Dalyan: DEKAMER – My Experience

In my previous article, I discussed the on-going conservation work taking place at Iztuzu Beach, a place of magnificent natural beauty, and an integral...

Sea Turtles in Turkey: Caretta Caretta Conservation at Iztuzu Beach

In a time of increasing disregard for the environment within Turkey, the conservation work being undertaken to protect endangered marine turtles on the southwest...

How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the ‘Bul

During my first few months in Istanbul I wasn’t exactly bowled over by the place. I thought it was pushy, crowded, ugly and disorganised....

5 Things I’ll Miss Most About Istanbul

In a few days my wife and I will be leaving Istanbul after living here for three years. We have had an incredible time...

Yabangee Essentials

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