An Expat’s Guide to Hamams

Sometimes the grit and grime and non-stop pace of the city just get overwhelming. You need a break from the packed Metrobus and the swarming sidewalks of Istanbul. Your muscles ache from carrying heavy bags around the city, getting on and off crowded transportation, and dodging taxi drivers with road rage. This is the time when one can truly appreciate the peace and the beauty of relaxing in a hamam.

Despite the popularity of hamams among the tourist crowd, many foreigners and Turks are intimidated by the thought of actually going to one. Hopefully this article will answer some questions and make the hamams a more accessible option for those of us living in Turkey.

Before you go, you may want to take care of all your hair removal needs, whatever those may be. Most people do not shave in hamams, although you may come across it in some places. Pack a small bag with your own shampoo and conditioner, moisturizer, comb or other hair products, and a change of clothes.

First, you will need to choose a package option. Your hamam should have the choices listed near the entrance. Most hamams have at least two options, and descriptions are usually given in English and Turkish. The cheapest option only includes entrance to the baths. If you choose this one, you will need your own soap. The second option includes entrance, a soap massage, and a skin scrub. Any other options listed will have extra massages and usually cost much more.

The majority of Turkey’s hamams have separate baths for men and women. After paying, you should be given a peştemal (the traditional Turkish towel) and directed to the correct locker room, depending on your gender. People are rarely completely nude in the hamams. Men will keep a towel around their waists at all times. The women usually wear underwear or swimsuit bottoms. Some women may opt to wear a full swimsuit, and that is completely acceptable, although the attendant may ask them to remove the top for the massage.

Once you have decided what state of undress you feel most comfortable with, wrap yourself in the peştemal and go to the sıcaklık (hot room). Don’t forget your locker key; they usually are on a band that you can put around your wrist. In the sıcaklık, the idea is to sweat as much as possible. It’s usually not too hot, just very humid, so find a place to sit, and pour some warm or cool water over yourself from the marble basins if you wish. Breathe deeply and listen to the soft echoes and hypnotizing sounds of dripping water. You may also find a place on the göbek taşı (the marble stone in the center of the room), lie on your peştemal and close your eyes for a bit.

Eventually, an attendant will approach and ask if you are ready for your massage. The massage has two parts. First, the attendant will make a lot of bubbles with a cloth and soap. You should probably close your eyes for this to keep the soap out. The attendant washes, massages, and throws water over you to rinse off the soap. Then they use a keşe (a rough mitt) to scrub away your dead skin. This can be slightly painful, depending on your attendant, but it is definitely invigorating. Afterwards, take a look at all the dead skin that you’ve shed. Then they will lead you to one of the basins where you rinse off. If it’s included in the package you bought, the attendant may also shampoo your hair. If it’s an option at your hamam, I highly recommend this!

The hamam attendants probably won’t speak English, but they have no problem making themselves understood to foreigners. They may give you a little slap to let you know you should turn over, and  take your arm to guide you to where they want you to go next. Also, there should always be male attendants for the men and female attendants for the women. While some touristic hamams may have coed facilities, women should never agree to a massage from a male attendant if they are uncomfortable with it.

After the massage, you may stay in the steam room and relax as long as you like. Your peştemal was most likely soaked during the massage, so there should be dry towels or robes waiting just outside the hot room. When you are ready to exit, grab a fresh towel and go to the cool room. Here you may want to sit and have some juice or tea. You can also order an ayran and soda water. Add the soda to the glass first, then add ayran. Sit back and enjoy. This is much better than it sounds – give it a try!

Some hamams may have additional pools, saunas, or jacuzzis. These may be enjoyed before or after the massage, whichever you prefer. Just take your time, soak up the experience, and walk away feeling like a new, very clean person.

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