The Holy month of Ramadan aka Ramazan has started here in Turkey and over this thirty day period devout Muslims fast during daylight hours. This means not eating, drinking, smoking or even chewing gum, from early in the morning until the evening. Once it’s no longer possible to distinguish a piece of white string held up to the sky, it’s time to break the fast. It’s also a time to reflect on one’s life, to examine whether you have been compassionate, generous and honest.
As a visitor / expat you’re exempt from fasting, but to make the most of your time during this month here are some useful tips.
DO
• Go to an evening meal to break the fast, called iftar, if you’re invited. It’s a wonderful opportunity to get together with new friends and enjoy Turkish hospitality.
• Take candies to give to your host if you’re invited to someone’s home. Baklava is always welcome.
• Remember to wish people “Allah kabul etsin” during Ramadan, meaning may God accept your fast, and at the end of Ramadan “İyi bayramlar”, a good or happy festival.
• Be discreet if you decide to drink water during the day, especially in summer. No one will think badly of you but imagine how thirsty any onlookers will feel!
• Do go to Sultanahmet or Eyüp in the evening. Once there, join in with the families, couples and young lovers exploring the delights of the Ramadan fairs. Sample Mesir macunu, a sweet sticky paste dating back to Ottoman times, have your name written in Arabic calligraphy or laugh at the antics of the Karagöz, the Turkish shadow puppets.
DON’T
• Forget that outside of cities like Istanbul and Ankara, restaurants might be closed at lunchtime in smaller towns and villages, because not enough people are eating out. Grab a snack or a sandwich before you leave your hotel to keep you going.
• Be afraid if you wake up at 3 am to loud noises. It’s just a man playing a drum called a davul, making sure everyone is up in time to prepare and eat the pre-dawn meal known as sahur.
Most important of all, enjoy taking part in traditional Turkish life! You can find out more about Ramazan, and life in Turkey in general, by reading my book “Exploring Turkish Landscapes: Crossing Inner Boundaries”. Get your copy here.
All photos courtesy of the author.
This post was originally published in May 2018.
Hey! The first “do” is not true actually. We don’t say “iyi bayramlar” during the Ramadan month. We say that during Bayram, the three days of celebration right after the Ramadan.
Those obnoxious drummers are such a perfect representation of how backwards conservative, Anatolian, Sunni culture is. They assume that just because they are religious enough to wake up at 3 AM to eat, the whole neighborhood must be as well. They are so ignorant and disrespectful of individuality or the possibility that people might have different preferences and lifestyles than themselves.