Tarlabaşı to Feriköy: Sunday Pazar Walk

Istanbul has pazars aplenty. So, one somewhat rainy Sunday I had but one obvious choice for entertaining an out-of-town guest: We took on the task of visiting three very different markets in one afternoon, armed with a camera and lots of small bills. The first market we visited was Tarlabaşı Pazarı. This is a Sunday fruit and vegetable market famous for its lower-than-low prices and endless variety of almost convincing designer fakes that may or may not fall apart after their first encounter with the washing machine. You can buy almost anything at this market, from live goldfish and nuts to underwear, cigarettes and perfume. The market starts just off Ömer Hayyam Caddesi with stalls selling fruits, vegetables and cheeses and the wares get wackier as you approach Dolapdere Caddesi. Get there early for avocados! If you feel hungry, grab some gözleme or popcorn as you hunt for bargains.

Tarlabaşı Street Market
A goldfish for sale at the Tarlabaşı Pazarı (Source: L. Beardmore)

Although prices at the pazar are gradually rising, clothes, chopping boards and so on are still an absolute steal. While you may not find anything too pretty, all of your practical and gastronomical needs will be met.

Purchased: One pair of slouchy pants (which did not fit)

Top tip: Go early to avoid the crowds, and pick out your fruit yourself; sellers have been known to slip rotten fruit and vegetables into orders if given the chance.

As the Tarlabaşi Pazar winds to a natural end at the mannequin motorway of Dolapdere Caddesi, a short walk over the foot bridge brings one to what’s affectionately known as the Dolapdere Flea Market. Here local residents take to a few backstreets and hawk old clothes and bric-a-brac for cheap, cheap, cheap prices. Treasures to be found include old cassettes, paintings, knitwear, pots and pans, as well as the odd lamp or broken bicycle. Sellers at market are less aggressive than the Tarlabaşı Pazarı and you can admire the charming Greek church without being harassed.

Tarlabaşı Street Market
Aya Evangelistra Greek Orthodox Church in Dolapdere (Source: L. Beardmore)

Although you may not find anything terribly valuable at this market (“What do you mean you don’t want a pair of mismatched socks?”), you might come across your new favorite jumper or a little ornament for your home. Get there early in the morning for the best selection of goods.

Tarlabaşı Street Market
Clothes for sale at the Dolapdere Flea Market (Source: L. Beardmore)

Purchased: Woolly socks

Top Tip: The best bargains are gone in the first few hours of the day. Also, see if the church is open for visitors. It’s well worth a peak!

From the church, turn left back onto Dolapdere Caddesi and continue walking straight to Osmanbey. The neighborhood has an industrial feel, so you can play games along the way like “pick the prettiest mannequin” or “count the garages.” From the metro station, turn left again and head towards Bomonti. This will lead you to the Ferikoy Antique and Flea Market. If you’re familiar with the Saturday organic market, it’s in the same place. It is a huge covered market where you can find anything and everything; old—fur coats, records, typewriters, vintage scarves, swords, Turkish comic books, jewelry, copper pots, you name it! This market is simply stunning with an endless array of trinkets to feast your eyes on. You can also get some insight into Turkey’s history as you go along.

Tarlabaşı Street Market
Coffee cups and trinkets for sale at the Feriköy Flea Market (Source: L. Beardmore)

Additionally, and this part is very important, the gözleme at the Ferikoy Pazarı is the best in the entire world (unless you’ve been to the Beşiktaş Saturday Pazar, in which case I’d be inclined to call it a tie).

Generally, this pazar is perfect for the inner (and outer) magpie in all of us. Even if you don’t like to shop, just browsing the remnants of Turkey’s past is a feast for the senses. . It’s quite cheap too, with clothes ranging from 5 to 20 lira and jewelry often sold by the kilo.

Purchased: Silver rings, denim, a trinket box, a bag of assorted buttons.

Top Tip: Haggle on bulk purchases, especially jewelry.

Having spent the day rubbing shoulders, seeking lower prices and making friends, we decided to head home. My friend buzzed with satisfaction over her bargains. As for me, I was all too ready to rest my weary feet, and dream of next week’s gözleme.

Lydia Beardmore is a contributor to Yabangee.

Lydia Beardmore is a writer and photographer living in Istanbul. A life long explorer, she is in love with all things curious and poetic. Alongside writing for Time Out Istanbul and Atlas Obscura and hosting live events and workshops in the city, you can find her playing backgammon or swimming with the jellyfish on the Princes Islands. Read her Istanbul based short stories here www.lydiabeardmore.wordpress.com and see her photo blog here www.manicpixieanalogue.wordpress.com.

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