Honestly, Warsaw had never been at the top of my travel bucket list. I would have enjoyed seeing it one day, but it just had neutral appeal. An appeal that lost to major tourist magnet cities like Rome, Florence, or Berlin…
Well, that all has changed. I still am in love with Rome. And Bruges, and Florence. And I appreciate the art and culture of Paris. But Warsaw is now my all time favorite city. And I have assumed it my mission to spread the word out there that yes, Warsaw is out there, and is worth discovering.
Finances & Logistics
Although travel agents will claim that you cannot find cheap flights and must therefore book a package tour with them, this is not the case. You can easily find round-trip tickets on websites such as Kayak. When I checked, about two-three weeks in advance, I was able to find fares that started from $150, departing and arriving at reasonable times of day.
They use the Zloty, which is roughly equal to the Turkish Lira. You do not have to deal with the monstrous Euro/TL parity. You will not need to spend a fortune for a weekend, or a week, in European civilization. But you will still enjoy the city as much as, if not more, than any major EU capital. You can choose your hotel based on your budget. Like most European cities, Warsaw also has a great public transportation systems. Leave your traffic jam and transportation woes behind in Istanbul. Trams and buses are in abundance, run everywhere, and are spot on punctual. The one time I needed to take a cab, the driver was friendly and helpful and he did not try to give me a tour of the entire city just to go around the block.
What, when, where
Firstly, just enjoy the city and its aura and space. The city landscape is perfect, in my opinion. The new quarter does have its modern buildings and skyscrapers. But they are spaced out, not engulfing you and the air around you like in NYC or in Istanbul… There are parks and plenty of open space everywhere, without the isolation. As a side note, Warsaw was virtually completely destroyed during WWII. But it has been successfully rebuilt, from scratch, and remaining true to its antebellum architecture. So; old, historical Warsaw is still there and standing.
The old town is picturesque. My favorite area there was Krakowskie Przedmiescie Road. It is about a mile long, and each step is filled with history and something to impress. You start off with a rather hefty monument of Copernicus. One of the other national prides of Poland. A few meters down is the Church of the Holy Cross, where, inside an urn embedded in a column is the heart of Chopin. Sadly, the heart cannot be seen. But, it is there. Follow on, and there is his university. The Presidential Residence is there too, right in the heart of the city center. Hotel Bristol is a sight to see, as well. Though not for the light-incomed, posing for a selfie and pretending it is free of charge… And all around are scattered chocolate and sweet shops selling delicious Polish desserts and cakes.
If you are a classical music fan, you will be delighted to discover that classical music is BIG in Poland. In fact, it was what took me there in the first place. I was there for the Beethoven Easter Festival, a major classical music festival that takes place every year, hosting dozens of artists, orchestras, composers, and conductors. Add it to your bucket list and arrange your visit to Warsaw to coincide with this amazing time of the year. The season -early Spring- is perfect as well. Apart from the single day of rain, which did not hinder my travels, nature is in bloom, just like our musical spirit.
Further along the line of classical music, Chopin is a national hero, and you will find him in abundance… From the church containing his heart, to the church where he used to play the organ, to his house a few kilometers away Chopin is everywhere. If you have the time, take a tour (around $20) to be taken to his house of birth about an hour away. Poland also has an impressive list of Polish composers and artists, from living legend Krysztof Penderecki to Karlowicz, Szymanowski and Martinu. Discover the music.
Make time to see the Lazienki Park. It is similar in concept to the Yıldız Parkı and Malta Pavilion in Beşiktaş in Istanbul. That is, a mini-palace in the middle of the city, in a decently-sized royal park with plenty of nature. But, the Lazienki Park is about a million times more impressive. It is a palace literally built atop a creek. Otherwise known as “Palace on the Water.” One of the most picturesque landmarks you will ever get to see. As a bonus, the palace grounds also hold “the orangeries,” a greenhouse-looking building that somehow, impressively, holds an original Renaissance-era royal concert hall. Even more impressive is learning that it is one of less than a handful original royal theaters remaining in Europe.
Warsaw also has a very satisfying list of museums. I had the chance to visit the National Museum of Arts, and was pleasantly surprised to discover a Botticelli Virgin and Child there. If you are into art history, Carel Fabritius’ painting of the Rising of Lazarus is also there. A student of Rembrandt, the master’s presence is clearly felt in both style and technique. Contemporary and modern arts each have museums of their own. The House of Chopin has been converted into a museum as well. And if you have the strength of mind and heart for it, do visit “Polin,” the Museum of History of Polish Jews. If you are a science geek like me, the House of Madame Curie will also be of interest.
Overall, I loved Warsaw. It had all that the major European capitols had to offer, without the vanity. The city is grand, but approachable. Polish people are friendly, helpful, and warm. For the first time in my life, in a major European city, I was met with enthusiasm for being Turkish. Polish people still cherish the friendly history between Turkey and Poland, even at times of duress. Warsaw is budget-friendly enough for a weekend getaway. For those with enough time, the city has more than enough to keep you busy for over a week. The one catch is that, you will leave a part of your heart in Warsaw and may feel like a yabangee once back in Istanbul.
