With its long and colourful history, its unique geographical position, its collection of characters, cultures, and creeds, Istanbul has no shortage of laudable attributes. From tea gardens to beer gardens, from waterside walks to architectural highpoints, one could be forgiven for becoming awestruck in the city’s presence, but that would be an awful waste of time in such a wondrous place. With so much to see and as much to do, it can be difficult to know where to start – being overwhelmed is a definite possibility – and for every suggestion there is an equally acceptable counter-suggestion. You want my humble opinion? It would be a real shame to leave this place without experiencing a ride on a vapur.
Considering that it costs next to nothing to board one and that all shapes, sizes and states of mind are welcome, there really is no excuse for not occasionally enjoying these beautiful boats. They are plentiful in number and service many different routes (although the destination isn’t as important as the journey itself, if you ask me). From the vantage points of the Marmara Sea or the Bosphorus you can soak up your surroundings, can sip on çay if that’s your thing or just let the cool air kiss your upturned visage. However a person chooses to do it is their business, but do it one must. If the city is wearing you out then a water ride on a chugging anachronism is just the ticket. Like drinking Guinness in Dublin or taking a black cab in London, every city has its signature attraction although not many can claim to offer a water-borne adventure through it’s very heart and between two continents.
With the advent of newer boats there is always the possibility that the old ones will be phased out or replaced, which I for one would deem a great loss. Worse yet the vapurs might one day be upgraded; progress is normal and usually a good thing, but sitting in the enclosed boats that now ferry bodies between Bakırköy and Kadıköy is a good deal less romantic than standing on the lower deck of the old reliables. With the water rushing by not far from your feet and rickety handrails that can cause minor heart failure in the unsuspecting, there is something invigorating about these boats that the newer variety just can’t compete with.
Of course if you join the huddled masses on the upper decks then some of the romance will be lost — the lower deck is far superior for an exciting trip. There is so much space going mostly unused on the bottom deck, while the air seems to flow a little better down there, that being up top seems like a poor choice to me; my own favourite spot is the area between both seating sections. Incidentally, this is also the ideal place to be when the boat docks. There is a sense of freedom to be felt just knocking about down below, no numbered seats or ridiculous health and safety rules, it almost feels like this is how travel should be done, like our grandfathers knew a few things about going places in style. The first of these ferries made the trip in 1837. Imagine! Nowadays, of course, we are most often herded onto closed vessels of little charm, the romance all but gone along with the comfort and the fresh air. But these grand machines are a reminder of times gone by, they offer a comforting taste of life at its finest.
Following a trip to Bursa last week, a route I’m told was once serviced by vapurs, I can truly vouch for the older style of boat. Numbered seats and little leg room combined with screaming kids and tired parents made for a rather unpleasant experience, one which I feel could have been greatly improved upon by a brisk stroll and some sea air. For bir buçuk tele we are getting more than our money’s worth for now.
Eamon McHugh is a contributor to Yabangee
