There are few quintessential Turkish experiences quite like visiting a proper meyhane. Enjoyed in good company, communal dining over a wide array of mezeler and a few stiff Rakı drinks is a one-way ticket to long and passionate discussions, hearty laughter, and if you’re among locals then almost certainly some boisterous singing of Turkish ballads. Finding the right meyhane is often the biggest challenge, as one wants a bit of atmosphere, quality food with some unique flourish, and of course to feel as though they’re being fairly charged for the night’s festivities. In pursuit of such an encounter, I was recently delighted to follow up on some emphatic recommendations and visit Madame Feronia, a stylish and unreservedly cool meyhane tucked away in the heart of Nisantaşı – just off the main road and welcoming those adventurous in wanting to try something a little different.
Venturing down Haci Emin Efendi Sokak (parallel to the landmark Rumeli Caddesi) and passing the various boutiques and cafes is a worthy reminder that Nişantası has much to offer for those willing to wind through its side streets and explore. Madame Feronia, with its red awning and warmly lit entryway, is an easy find and an inviting one at that. Upon entering, the walls of the interior immediately jump out, covered with hundreds if not thousands of signatures and messages from guests over time. Names, love notes, song quotes, words of wisdom; all written in chalk on black walls, embodying an essence of meyhane culture that is so often felt in abundance… nostalgia. In addition to the scribbling, black and white photos of celebrities from bygone eras are framed in tribute throughout the carefully lit walls, accompanying a soundtrack echoing through the halls that’s sure to please any fan of the genre that so frequents such establishments.
As is always a concern in our new normal, one will note that Madame Feronia has taken Covid-19 precautions seriously. First and foremost, encouraging reservations as they’re only willing to host 25 people at a given time, so one will want to make sure they’ve booked their spot in advance. Beyond this, one will find the staff wearing masks and hand sanitizer available in abundance. With a relatively comfortable distance between us and other patrons, seated next to an open balcony overlooking a garden with fresh air flowing in, we felt safe enough and could focus our attention on what really matters… dinner.
Taking our seats, the first thing to stand out in the table setting is inevitably going to be the Rakı glasses. Featuring some of the most notorious individuals from the late 1800s and early 1900s, there appears to be at least six figures to collect: Kesik Nikola, Şık Manol, Piç Ardaş, Arap Hüsnü, Konyalı Osman, and Odesalı Kosti. Gangsters through and through, you can find details on each on the back of the glasses. Murder, gambling, extortion, and evading arrest are among the most common threads that bind these men, but additional research tells some exceptional stories of drama and intrigue that coincided with the early days of the Turkish Republic.
We were fortunate to meet owner and head chef Kıvanç Karabulut while there. A former pilot like his father, he transitioned to the culinary arts in recent years – working at prestigious hotels and restaurants throughout the city, gaining experience along the way and trying his hand at creating dishes. Eventually wanting to pursue his own fine dining vision, he made the commitment to procuring his own restaurant, implementing the delicate touches on the meyhane experience that is Madame Feronia. Immediately warm and engaging, he was a masterful host, and possesses the aura of someone who has found real happiness in their work. In a meyhane setting this functions especially well, lightening the mood and adding to the merriment as he checks in on guests and makes everyone feel welcome.
As with any good meyhane night out, we started with a table covered in various, fresh mezeler. Roasted eggplant with tahini sauce covered in pumpkin seeds, and deniz borulcesi (of which I know no English equivalent) covered with a special garlicy sauce were among our favorites, but a quick look at the freshly made dishes in the display reveal an array of seasonal delights that one can sample upon. Other crowd favorites include a girit ezmesi style dish with flavorsome cheese and splashes of spice that form a tasty spread, a humus with light spice and filled with pastirma that arrives ready to meet some fluffy bread, a colorful mushroom salad with plenty of peppers, a more than adequate variety of eggplant dishes, and of course many other meze essentials.
Having made quick work of our starters, there may have been a brief period of fear that we may be too full to indulge in main courses, but it was hastily put to rest when greeted by the alluring smell of our entrées. Rather than individual dishes, the main courses at Madame Feronia follow on the legacy of the mezeler, prepared with the intention of being shared by all present. Acting as the menu in this case is none other than chef Kıvanç Karabulut, who will offer several unique twists on street foods which have been transformed into aesthetically presented, delicious dishes for everyone to hone in on. Midye, cooked in a rich cream, with hints of cheese, herbs, peppers, and other spices came sizzling to the table and is sure to be a crowd-pleaser for any seafood fans. My personal favorite however was what is likely a signature dish in the form of generously spiced kokoreç, also served hot in a pan on pieces of bread that have been soaking up the flavors. As someone whose experiences with kokoreç tend to be in the very late hours after a big night on the town, this was a much-loved adaptation and great fit for the evening’s theme.
It’s likely fair to say the kokoreç dish is a mainstay of Madame Feronia, as it also serves as the main offering for regularly occurring theme nights that the restaurant hosts (in more normal times), as well as part of their daily happy hour (14:00 – 19:00) offering that includes french fries and beer. So for those looking to dabble in the experience before going all in on a meyhane dinner, it’s a simple way to sample a unique delight and have a few drinks on board at a reasonable price.
You can, of course, keep up with Kıvanç and Madame Feronia – and what is sure to be their growing popularity in the years ahead, by following them on Facebook and Instagram. There, you can also find details on theme nights, parties, and more as we hopefully soon return to a sense of normality in the city. Current hours are 14:00 to 00:00, but are subject to change with shifts in regulation, so do confirm when calling ahead if necessary. Reservations can be made via +90 532 525 48 60.
Editor’s Note: The place had changed its name to Haco Hanım’ın Meyhanesi. The location, phone number, and social media accounts remain the same.
Images courtesy of the establishment.
