The Lycian Way is heaven for hikers. Its 540 kilometres following the ancient Lycian route between Antalya and Fethiye and provides plenty of chances to dip into the blue Mediterranean, learn about ancient history, and converse with locals along the way.
However not everyone has over three weeks to spare for the immense hike. Luckily much of the route is accessible by bus so you can easily carve out a shorter hike. But let me warn you, it’s easy to get addicted and start planning future long weekends on the trail!
We chose to do the route between Kaş and Üçağız. There are many blogs and resources available, including Culture Routes in Turkey, a hiking foundation dedicated to preserving historical sites. For packing I recommend another Yabangee writer’s list and emphasize the need for water shoes!
Though apparently we chose one of the most deserted stretches of coastline, we as just two girls had very few problems and were greeted by kindness and blessings by everyone we met along the way. The only concern is carrying enough food, but even in winter there are enough open pensiyons and restaurants. For water, there are plenty of free potable çesmeler (fountains) along the trail. People warned us about wild boars but we didn’t see any, perhaps thanks to the three stray dogs that stayed with us throughout the trip!
Kaş is easily accessible from Dalaman or Antalya airports, and by bus from any main city. We spent a day in Fethiye to see the start of the trail as well as some historical sites along the way. The next morning we took the bus to Kaş, a two hour scenic ride along the coast for 20 tl.
Day 1: Tombs, dogs, and no wild boars
After arriving in Kaş, we checked out a few Lycian tombs and the amphitheatre before beginning day one of our three night, four-day journey. In the summer there is a ferryboat from the harbour to Limanağzı which shaves 3-4 kilometres off the hike. Not wanting to barter with the fishermen, we took the trail by foot past cliff tombs and accidentally picked up three dogs that followed us for the entire journey.
Following Limanağzı we made it through the rocky trail to Ufakdere. In the summer there must be many tourists, but in the winter just one man takes care of the space. We continued on the trail, through a kind elderly farming couple’s farm, and then down the hill to a flat area by a foutain.
This spot is accessible by road which meant lots of people having bonfires. We didn’t mind the neighbours of course, but unfortunately two men told us we had to pay to camp after we already set up. Next time I would continue further up the hill and find a more secluded spot.
Day 2: Goats, cows, and old stone homes
In the morning we headed up the cliffs where we were greeted by an endless pack of goats and an old man kindly offering çay and food. Once up the hill, we reached the outskirts of Boğazcık and Apollonia Lodge, open year-round. Boğazcık is close to Aperlae, an important Lycian town, and we snacked amongst the ruins for a short break.
The path continues on the outskirts of Kılıçlı. Kılıçlı is worth a visit for its rock homes, a bright yellow mosque, and a cluster of the oldest people I have ever seen in my life. We were told there was a “supermarket” but in reality the dusty shop just had packaged cookies. The elderly gang outside blessed us with long health wishes and those hard pats on the shoulder that I now expect every time I meet an old person, but unfortunately there were no substantial groceries.
We continued on through some more old stone houses, rejoicing at knowing we were only 2 km from the Purple House. Purple House is an almost self-sufficient eco-lodge run by a kind man and his very funny young son. We ate soup and chatted, enjoying the rest in the sun amongst buzzing bees and twittering birds. Refreshed, it was only a short walk to the next bay through a field of cows where we set up in one of the most beautiful campsites close to a pier and a restaurant accessible only by boat. The owner came by to say hi and comfortingly told us “buradayım” (I’m here) as he left. Other than the sound of boaters, we were completely alone.
Day 3: Taurus mountain views, gözleme, and swimming at Simena
After another (disappointingly?) wild boar free night, we started up the cliff! From where we camped it was only 6km to Üçağız and we were in fresh spirits. On the plateau we admired more stone houses, views of the Taurus mountains, and a bevy of cows that started to follow us. Once down the hill, the last couple kilometres to Üçağız follow the coastline and are mostly flat.
Finally we reached adorable Üçağız and ate some of the best gözleme of my life. We left our bags at the restaurant and returned to the road to explore Kaleköy (Simena), about 4 kilometres away. The off season in Kaleköy means lots of construction and none of the hand-made pomegranate ice cream I had two summers ago, but still great swimming and amazing views in one of the oldest continuously habited towns in the world.
Upon our return we camped just outside of Üçağız in arguably the best camping spot right on the trail. In the morning we woke early for a moonlit trek back to the meydan for the daily 8am, 27 lira, winter season bus back to Antalya.
Logistics
In total it was a great little getaway, a chance to refresh from the big city, and challenge our bodies and minds. We hiked over 15km each day and could have done more if it weren’t for blisters. If you want lighter backpacks, you can easily have many meals at restaurants open even in winter. There are enough opportunities for water and we carried about 5 litres between the two of us. For the route, we used Open Street Map, an open source app where people have marked the trail, camping spots, and fountains. There are many other apps such as Culture Routes in Turkey. I would definitely recommend hiking in the winter just for the cooler days, not as busy historical sites, and still warm-enough-to-swim weather!.
