Those traversing the crumbling walls demarcating the boundaries of old Istanbul may find that amongst the equally-as-crumbled residential buildings between Chora Church and Tekfur Sarayı there aren’t quite as many cafes as can be found in other sightseeing hotspots. While some may rejoice at this seeming lack of gentrification in an oft-visited tourist locale, others may wish they could sit and relax while nestled between the bricks of two glorious empires.
Just last week, I was taking photos of cats in true hipster-like fashion when I spotted a small, cute-looking coffee shop. I walked in immediately, thinking back to my last trip to the neighborhood — it was the middle of summer and my friends and I had spent 40 minutes fruitlessly roaming in search of somewhere to eat that wasn’t a fancy-shmancy restaurant by the Chora Church (though I hear that place is way good…).
And now, here it was, Istanyol Cafe, the very place we’d been looking for more than seven months back. Though only February, I could tell come summer business would be booming. (I noticed a grill outside, so I have high hopes.) True to Turkish entrepreneurial form, some of the outdoor seating is tucked right into the fortifications of what was once Constantinople, and a fresh flower graces every table; you aren’t likely to find a better resting spot in the area, especially on a gloriously sunny day.
A bit too trendy for the working-class Derviş Ali neighborhood, Istanyol sticks out a bit between the auto shops and abandoned homes, but the prices are still decidedly local and the staff is incredibly friendly — shining with hope as they eye each passerby. Esra, the manager, is proud of her little Edirnekapı heaven, and will take a liking to anyone who shows even the remotest interest in the collection of elephant figurines she has lovingly displayed by the bar.
If you make the trek out to Chora Church early in the day, you can stop by Istanyol for a breakfast of menemen, or grab a decent-for-Istanbul macchiato and tost for a quick pick-me-up after a long afternoon of wandering through Fatih.
Right on Hoca Çakır Caddesi, just inside the Byzantine ramparts, you’re sure to pass by Istanyol on your search for Tekfur Sarayı, which is believed to be an annex of the Palace of Blachernae. And just a few hops down the street from the cafe doors, you’ll find a precarious set of stairs that leads right to the top of the battlements. It’s not exactly the best view of the city, but the climb is half the adventure.
Istanyol Cafe
Derviş Ali Mahallesi
Hoca Çakır Caddesi No. 12
Fatih/Edirnekapı
0(532) 152 51 97
Facebook: istanyolcoffee
Insider Trading is our new column sharing expats’ secret finds in Istanbul. These recommendations are unsolicited and uncompensated. Have a place you want to share? Send us an email at emma@yabangee.com.
Tas Anjarwalla is a contributor to Yabangee
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