Walk through the doors of Bakıroğlu Gurme and you’re met by a visual feast. Blocks of bright fruit and vegetables, counters chock full of delicious cheeses and salamis, and dishes of perfectly pickled preserves and olives. In every corner, there are stacks of honey and home-made sauces, which makes it feel like you’ve stumbled into a Turkish Mum’s pantry. But the best thing about this stylish deli is that you don’t have to wait until you get home; you can take a seat and sample the delights then and there.
The breakfast plate we ordered was superb. The salami and cheese were freshly sliced, the juice was freshly squeezed and the olives and nuts were delicious. There were at least four types of salami and cheese on the plate. We also had menemen, which is among the best I’ve tasted in Istanbul. Everything is fresh and made by people that really know this food. I’d never thought about it before, but it stands to reason that a deli would be likely to produce a better breakfast plate than a bakery. After all, a good Turkish breakfast is really about fresh and tasty produce. You do pay slightly more than your average bakery breakfast but it’s well worth it.
In my opinion, however, the crowning glory of the breakfast at Bakıroğlu was the generous portion of kaymak (set cream) and honey that arrives with every breakfast. Of all the breakfast treats in Turkey, this is possibly the least healthy and also the most delicious. The portion you get is more kaymak than you would ever serve yourself and you somehow feel allowed, even required, to eat the whole dish. Can’t let it go to waste after all!
One thing to note is that Bakıroğlu is a very popular deli. The people coming in through the numerous doors means it can get quite cold during winter and is always bustling. I personally like the bustle and it’s great for people watching. As for the cold, well, the perfect activity after this generous-portioned breakfast is a windswept walk along Bostancı seafront – just be sure to wrap up warm for both!
Address: Bostancı Mahallesi, Prof. Ali Nihat Tarlan Sokağı 47-9, 34744 Kadıköy/İstanbul
Phone: (0216) 362 30 25
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