Hunting for Records in Istanbul, Part 2: Kadıköy

In the first part of this series, I spent the day browsing through Beyoğlu’s record shops. A few days later, once the gloomy weather had subsided, I hopped on a ferry – quite fittingly named Barış Manço – and set off towards Kadıköy, excited to see the record shops on offer.

Vintage Records

After landing in Asia I made my way towards Moda Caddesi, where I found Vintage Records located just off it. Entering the shop I was greeted by a wall of smoke and a whole host of vintage items, as well as the site of an enormous pair of speakers suspended from the wall.

The selection of second-hand records included Turkish music, funk, rock and metal. You can find anything from Tom Waits, to Megadeth, to Turkish classical singer Muazzez Abacı. However, I soon realised the steepness of the prices in this shop – no doubt because of its swanky Moda postcode – when being quoted just shy of 400 TL for an Okay Temiz record I wanted. Needless to say I passed.

Despite the expensive prices, Vintage Records is definitely worth a visit due to its extensive collection and unique atmosphere.

Phone Number: (0216) 330 22 49

Address: Dr. Esat Işık Caddesi No.20, Kadıköy

Rainbow 45

Heading further along Moda Caddesi and down Sakız Sokak, I reached Rainbow 45 Records. Walking in I was transported straight back to my teenage years as an avid metal fan, hearing that all too familiar double bass and drop D guitar tuning. Despite an impressive selection of metal, progressive rock, psychedelic rock, Turkish music, jazz and funk, it’s not the records available that make this my highest regarded record store in Istanbul. It’s the atmosphere and friendliness of the staff.

I quickly struck up a conversation with the owner Salih, a man who is extremely passionate about his music and is always eager to discuss records with fellow vinyl collectors. Although he was busy cataloguing and pricing new arrivals from the Netherlands, he was still generous with his sharing of knowledge (and chocolate!). He felt bad that he didn’t have the time to discuss music and vinyl in depth, and asked if I’d be interested in coming back another time when he was less busy.

After some lukewarm reactions when asking questions about Istanbul’s vinyl culture and history in Beyoğlu’s record shops, the sincerity of this response was refreshing.

For many, the exclusivity and slightly pretentious atmosphere radiating from some record shops is a major deterrent, creating the impression of an impenetrable closed community. Rainbow 45 felt like the polar opposite of this, with an open and inviting atmosphere in which you often forget that you’re even in a shop. Quite fittingly there are a set of tables and chairs which lend themselves to the naming of Rainbow 45 as a Müzik Café.

Both professionalism and passion are evident at this record shop and Salih’s commitments branch outside of sales as he produces and masters the music of local talent. He also manages and runs Rainbow 45’s new record label, already with the haunting Ritual EP by Turkish progressive rock band Nemrud under its belt, and further releases in the pipeline.

It was the personal touch and friendly and positive attitude of the owner that made visiting this record shop such a pleasurable experience, and I left with an Iron Maiden LP and a big smile on my face.

Phone Number: (0216) 405 23 20

Address: Sakız Sokak, No: 2-D, Kadıköy

Zoltan Records

A couple of hundred metres down the road I reached Zoltan Records, a small shop run by Emek Can Tülüş, a man with more than two decades of knowledge and experience in the industry. Unfortunately Emek wasn’t there, but his friend Barış spoke about him in glowing terms, saying that he was the go-to man for record collectors in the city, advising me to seek him out upon his return to Istanbul.

Barış told me that Emek’s motto has always been quality over quantity, and that was certainly the case with an impressive selection of rare local and international LPs. Stocking mostly jazz, funk, rock and Turkish music, the fair prices, friendly atmosphere, and knowledgeable owner make this a must for all record collectors visiting or living in Istanbul.

Once again I was touched by the open atmosphere, with Barış doing his best to answer my questions about record shops in Istanbul. Not one to try and blemish or downplay potential competitors, he was happy to talk about and recommend other record stores in Istanbul. With Zoltan Records making a strong impression on me, the second such shop to do so in Kadıköy, I left with an LP by The Orb and made my way to my final stop.

Phone Number: (0536) 231 67 95 or (0535) 353 41 57

Address: Sakız Sokak 15/D, Kadıköy

Zihni Müzik Evi

Zihni Müzik Evi is located in Akmar Pasajı, known by Turkish students as the go-to place when in need of academic textbooks. Easily having the largest selection of records of any of the shops I visited, the entire inside (and outside) of Zihni is filled with stacks, boxes and draws of records, with alphabetised catalogues around the shop making searching for records a breeze.

As well as an arsenal of second-hand records, Zihni has a large collection of new records still in their shrink wrap, including an unopened Portishead LP I happily took off their hands for a steal.

With the discographies of Miles Davis, Nina Simone and hundreds of other artists, and a large collection of metal, jazz, funk and soul 33s and 45s, if there’s a record you want then Zihni is where you’re most likely to find it.

The good prices and friendliness of the staff make Zihni Müzik Evi one of the top record stores in the city.

Phone Number: (0216) 336 50 09

Address: Mühürdar Caddesi Akmar Pasajı No. 70/13, Kadıköy

While slowly meandering my way back to the ferry terminal, I began to contemplate the two days I had spent visiting record stores in Istanbul. What struck me almost immediately was the positive and friendly atmosphere in Kadıköy’s record stores. That’s not to say that it wasn’t the case in Beyoğlu, but it just felt that the staff and owners in Kadıköy found more joy in imparting their wisdom and knowledge of music upon inquisitive vinyl collectors.

I had already voiced these thoughts to a member of the staff in Zihni Müzik Evi who was wholly unsurprised at my feelings. In her eyes, people living on the Asian-side have more time to appreciate and share their passions, devoid of the fast-paced hectic mentality of the European-side.

For someone who (ashamedly) has spent  little time exploring the Asian-side of Istanbul, this experience transcended its beginnings as a look at the city’s record stores, making a deep impression upon me.

Philosophical ramblings aside, hunting for records in Beyoğlu and Kadıköy left me highly impressed with the variety and selection on offer. Music has always been at the heart of Istanbul, and unsurprisingly, the global resurgence in vinyl sales has spread to this city. The streets of Beyoğlu and Kadıköy are littered with vinyl shops, both old and new, inviting record collectors to browse in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere and find both local and international gems to add to their collection.

Do you know of any other good record shops in Istanbul?