In Conversation with Jeweler Olivia Cummings of Cleopatra’s Bling

I plodded down the hill to Olivia Cummings’s Tophane studio on a rare snowy day in Istanbul, and was happy to shake the snow off my boots and step into the warmth of her cozy second floor studio, where she greeted me with a cup of tea. It is in this intimate space that Olivia, a transplant from Melbourne, designs the jewelry for Cleopatra’s Bling, creating individual crystal creations for men and women that are natural and chic. We sat down to chat by her worktable, where her newest designs, fashioned from wax, sat in rows like cookies waiting to be baked, and a large wooden cutting board was brimming with wax settings and crystals in a multitude of colors. I asked Olivia about her start in Istanbul, learning from jewelers in the Grand Bazaar, what inspires her jewelry, and her favorite spots around the city.

Why did you come to Istanbul?

I came to Istanbul the first time about three years ago when I was living in Paris, and I was fascinated by it, so I bought a ticket and came for a week on my own. I discovered everything that I still love in Istanbul: the jewelry, the art, the architecture, the food, the vibrancy, and the sort of craziness here. As I was wrapping up my time in Paris, I decided that I should move here as my next step.

Did you already have your jewelry business before coming here?

I started it as a side project when I was doing my Master’s in Paris, because I always liked jewelry and wanted to make jewelry that I couldn’t find on the market. So I started designing jewelry and having it made in Istanbul, and when I moved here, I started making it myself.

How did you learn to make your jewelry?

I just walked up and started talking to people. I went to the Grand Bazaar and started speaking to older men there about their designs and how they make stuff, and just asked if I could join, and they said ‘yes’. My first experience at the Grand Bazaar was overwhelming. I took refuge in the shop where the guys weren’t overwhelming me and as a result, my guards were down. We started talking — we are still really good friends, even though they don’t make jewelry for me anymore, because I make it.

Was it a welcoming environment?

It’s always hard as a woman in the Grand Bazaar — especially in jewelry, because it is more [traditionally] for men, and women generally work in textiles. Sometimes people do a double take when they walk past, also because I look foreign.

The artisans I learned from said that I was good at it, and so were more open to teaching me. I learned about molding with wax and different polishing techniques. I find it instinctual, but it was good to have someone to teach me the basic techniques.

Did you feel like you had to prove yourself?

I didn’t have to prove myself. If you’re curious in Turkey, people will always appreciate curiosity and won’t judge you. That’s a good thing about the Turks — you show curiosity in anything, even a bread that someone made and they’ll tell you all about it with pride. It’s very Turkish. If you approach someone and tell them you want to learn more about the art that they’re doing, you’re off to a good start.

Where do you draw your inspiration for your jewelry?

I grew up in a family where we were always outdoors and I like the natural side of crystals. I find them grounding. I collected crystals and stones when I was younger. I try to keep stones and crystals in their own form. A crystal in and of itself is so nice — why would you change anything about it? I find that they go nicely with the silver, bronze, and gold, and even if I use the same crystal the design of the piece will be different, because I make every setting individually. I found my childhood collection when I went home this summer and am making a ring for myself right now with a stone from it, a moss agate.

What is the biggest challenge that you’ve faced here?

It is sometimes difficult to be a girl and a foreigner, because of the way that men interact with you. I don’t always realize it until I leave Turkey and go back to Australia. I think as a result of that, you create such strong ties with people you have an affinity with. In Australia and France, you feel like you can be much more independent, but the conditions here mean that you need people more. It’s things like comments on the street… that’s the only thing I find challenging here.

What do you do for fun?

Going out to the markets and cooking for dinner parties with my friends. We do that a lot. I’m also pretty obsessed with the antique market and go nearly every Sunday, and eat gözleme.

Where do you unwind or relax?

It’s pretty hard to unwind or relax in Istanbul, but I love going to the hamam. My favorite is Kocamustafapaşa in Fatih. They scrub you with Turkish coffee, so you smell like a cappuccino. It’s amazing.

Where is your favorite haunt?

There is a restaurant on the roof of the Grand Bazaar, right next to my friend’s carpet shop, and it’s so nice. It’s covered in vine leaves and the walls are painted different colors. There’s homemade food and when it’s sold out, it’s sold out. That’s honest cooking and what I like. The restaurant is hard to find… I don’t even think it has a name.

What has been your biggest surprise?

I was surprised when Turkish people wanted to buy my designs. My style is so different from the style I see on the street. My biggest surprise was that Turkish journalists wanted to write about me.

Do you have any advice for other expats?

I would say, learn Turkish. That’s the best way to bridge any gap. It’s a myth that you’ll get along with someone if you’re from the same country. I would rather spend time with a person I can hardly communicate with but have a good feeling about, than someone from the same nationality where there’s no connection. For people who are feeling lost in Istanbul, the key is talking to people around you. Like my baker, for example, he always talks to me as I walk past. Foreigners that feel lonely in Turkey, sometimes create their own loneliness.

I would also suggest to get off the beaten track and go down little streets. That’s how I met a lot of people here. I recently discovered Balat. There is so much to see in Istanbul — so much richness.

You can check out Olivia’s designs on her website, Cleopatra’s Bling. She’s also active on Facebook and Instagram, where she has lots of swoon-worthy shots.