One of the best ways to unwind and relax after a long week of dealing with work (not to mention the Istanbul traffic) is to meet friends in Beşiktaş on a Sunday morning/afternoon for a delicious brunch, followed by a visit to the local hamam. Not only do you get to soak in some of the best Istanbul has to offer, but you get to do so away from the tourist crowds.
First, things first: brunch. Beşiktaş has a lot of options when it comes to a quality Turkish breakfast, and they are luckily all concentrated in Sinanpaşa Mahallesi, which is right off of the Meydan and close to the Akaretler bus stop. Pando’s Kaymakçı shop, a legendary breakfast place in Beşiktaş, was known for having the best bal kaymak (honey and cream) in town. Sadly, though, this successful, family-owned shop closed down in early 2014 after being in business for more than a hundred years.
Since then, the best place to get this special Turkish treat is the Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu, located on Çelebioğlu Sokak. It was absolutely packed with people during my last few visits, but that’s a good indication of how excellent the breakfast really is there. The atmosphere of Çakmak Kahvaltı is very lively with the hustle and bustle of waiters and hosts/hostesses speeding by your table to deliver orders and collect payments. Yet no matter how busy they get, the service is always excellent; I can’t say the same for many of the other breakfast places I’ve been to in Istanbul. You may have to wait 5-10 minutes for a table, but it’s worth it for their plentiful portion of bal kaymak, which is the perfect mix of sweet and creamy. Their portions for the olives, tomatoes, cheese, bread, etc. are also very generous, and cheap as well. A breakfast plate for two people will put you back around 30 TL. I would recommend adding a sucuk (sausage) or pastırma (cured meat) menemen if you are feeling extra hungry. Whatever you decide to order (but really, order the bal kaymak), Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu is one of the best breakfast places in Istanbul and well worth a visit.
After you’re sated and satisfied with the great breakfast, head over with a friend or two to the Beşiktaş Hamamı, which is only a short walk from Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu and the other breakfast places in Sinanpaşa Mahallesı. Compared to the hamams in Sultanahmet and Çemberlitaş, which are often overpriced and touristy, the local hamam is Beşiktaş is affordable, accessible, and more of a low-key experience. Rather than feeling like you’re rushed through, similar to a moving piece on an assembly line, you can kick back, relax, and enjoy a languid afternoon at the Beşiktaş Hamamı. The combination of a great brunch with a hamam experience, all within close walking distance of one another, is hard to beat if you want to enjoy a relaxing Sunday in this eclectic neighborhood. I’ve found that it’s the perfect remedy to a stressful week of work and chores. So the next time you have a free weekend day this spring or summer, do yourself a favor and check out these two places back to back. I promise that you won’t regret it.
Benjamin Weinberg is a contributor to Yabangee.
Featured Image Source: Nevit Dilmen | CC BY-SA 3.0 | Flickr
