Located in the quiet northern suburb of Sarıyer, Tarabya is home to the modern, chic amenities of downtown life as well as the natural spaces, history, and serenity of the old city. While this may be true of all of Istanbul’s neighborhoods, there is no other place on the European side that has more space for development, more unspoiled natural areas, and the tranquility that so many of us long for. Tarabya originally served as a relaxing getaway spot for the affluent, and today it remains one of the most beautiful, original neighborhoods in Istanbul in terms of both appearance and atmosphere. To better understand the area, let’s have a little history lesson.
Tarabya was first settled by the Byzantines in the 12th century, and its name comes from the Greek word Therapeia (therapy). Greek Patriarch of Constantinople Cosmas II Atticus is said to have choosen the name based on the area’s vast expanse of forest and coastal area and the air’s supposed “healing” qualities.
During the 16th century, Sultan Selim II is said to have travelled to Tarabya for hunting and fishing. He was apparently so delighted with the area that he brought gardeners to tend a royal garden and settle the area. Villages from this time were later plundered and largely destroyed by Don and Cossack raids. In his expeditions around Constantinople in 1630, famed traveler Evliya Çelebi documented that Tarabya was a small village whose inhabitants were both Muslims and Greek Orthodox Christians.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, many wealthy members of the Phanariots (a famous group of wealthy Greek families) built summer houses (yalılar) here to escape overpopulation and the plague, which at that time was ravaging the city. Many of these families held high positions as Ottoman ambassadors, or worked within the empire’s Supreme Council. These homes were then transferred into the hands of ambassadors to be used as summer embassies.
Today, the neighborhood of Tarabya still retains its famed natural beauty and offers glimpses of its rich history. As for our trip through Tarabya, the best place to start is at the Hacıosman Korusu, a nature preserve located in the heart of Tarabya.
Walking Tour: After exiting Hacıosman metro station in Sarıyer (last station on the M2 line) you want to head to the side of the street with a large bus depot. Take a right down Tarabya Bayırı Caddesi. Hacıosman Korusu is about a five-minute walk from there.
- Hacıosman Korusu
Open Daily, Free
Situated right down the street from the Hacıosman metro station, this environmentally-protected oasis is a gorgeous place to have a picnic, go for a hike, and get an idea of the original beauty that attracted so many people to the area. At 250 acres, the park is part of Istanbul Municipality’s commitment to preserving large swaths of natural areas from encroaching development.
Tips: Picnickers should bring their own blankets or chairs as well as a bag to transport any garbage that might be left over from your fun. Trash bins are located at the entrance of the preserve. Following well-worn paths into the trees is the best way to find a perfect picnic spot.
From Hacıosman Korusu it’s back to Tarabya Bayırı Caddesi to catch the red-hatted İstinye-F.Evler-T.Üstü minibus into a neighborhood within Tarabya called Ferah Evler. For readers who haven’t used this minibus route, the fare is 1.75 TL per person and you will tell the driver your destination is Ferah Evler. This minibus route passes right through Nuripaşa Caddesi and literally right in front of the Ural Ataman Classic Car Museum.
- Ural Ataman Classic Car Museum
Open Saturdays, 5TL
Reminiscent of mid-twentieth century America, this classic car museum boasts a gleaming collection of classics including a restored 1926 Ford Model T. In addition to cars, the museum houses a number of other automotive and industrial objects. Antique ceramic and neon signs, gasoline pumps, power turbines, and a display of classic dashboard accessories lining the walls make you feel like you’re being transported to another place in time. The building is designed in a nostalgic Art Deco style and is home to more than 50 completely restored classic cars.
From Ural Ataman Classic Car Museum, cross the street and take the red-hatted minibus back the way you came, to Tarabya Bayırı Caddesi. Upon entering the minibus, tell the driver your destination is the Hacıosman metro. The metro station, as you saw earlier, is also a large bus depot. After exiting the minibus at Hacıosman, cross the street to the bus station and board the 25A RUMELİKAVAĞI – HACIOSMAN METRO. Exit at the Tarabya bus stop (the seventh station from Hacıosman). From the bus station make your way down the hill and take a right onto Yeniköy Tarabya Caddesi.
*If you take a left on Yenikoy Tarabya Caddesi, it will take you to the location of the Grand Tarabya Hotel, but for the purposes of this walk you will only see it when looking behind you on your way down Yeniköy Tarabya Caddesi.
*Grand Tarabya Hotel (Tokatlıyan Hotel)
Built in 1909 as a branch of Mıgırdiç Tokatlıyan’s famous Tokatlıyan Hotel in Beyoğlu, the Tokatlıyan Tarabya was a 120-room hotel located on the seaside overlooking the Bosphorus. Ravaged by a fire in 1954, the hotel was reconstructed in the mid-1960s and named the Grand Tarabya Hotel. Today, you can soak up spectacular views and live in luxury at this chic, 5-star hotel.
- The German Embassy Summer Residence
Originally a summer residence for members of the Greek Soutsos family, the land was later gifted to Germany by Sultan Abdulhamid II in 1880 for diplomatic purposes. Today, the German summer embassy now functions as a space for intercultural dialogue between Germany and Turkey. In 2010, the space was opened up to accommodate artists from Germany who were invited to come and take inspiration from the beautiful landscape. Access to the grounds is by permit only.
- Huber Villa (Cumhurbaşkanlığı Köşkü)
The Huber Villa is believed to have been built for August Huber by the Italian architect Raimondo D’Aronco during the late 1890s. The exact date and architect, however, remain a mystery. Huber was Istanbul’s official agent for the German Mauser Rifle Company. During this time, Sultan Abdulhamid II sought the help of the Germans, or one Baron von der Goltz, for training and re-equipping the Ottoman army to repel the inevitable advance of the Russians. The Huber family abandoned the mansion during the invasion of Istanbul during World War I. Aside from the main building, the mansion has a stable, garage, servants’ quarters, two small chalets, and a greenhouse. Huber Mansion is currently used as a summer residence for the president and is closed to the public.
After your tour of Tarabya you can take the 25A bus back to Hacıosman, or continue your coastal walk through Yeniköy.
Sarah Juptner is a contributor to Yabangee.
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Beautiful. Thank you for the tour!