Visiting the flea market of Dolapdere is a unique experience, especially at night. Rumor has it some of the products sold there are stolen, which is probably why it is known as the thieves’ market among locals. Although some vendors may seem a bit shady and some products are of questionable origins, the market is a heaven for bargain enthusiasts.
The market is open on Sundays from 12 AM to approximately 12 PM. (Yes, it starts at night and closes at midday!) It is located in a web of narrow backstreets in the district of Dolapdere, 15 minutes on foot from Taksim square. If you want to find some hidden treasures, you have to get there super early. Pro tip: Get there at night, bring a flashlight or make sure that your cell phone has enough battery! This can be very helpful while searching through the piles of clothes stacked on top of carpets spread on the ground. The vendors cover their products with plastic foils whenever it rains, so the market is up and running in all weather conditions.
For best results, click to enlarge images.
Since most of the vendors do not speak much English, basic Turkish skills will be helpful. Most products are incredibly cheap, which is probably the biggest asset of this market. Still, you need basic negotiating skills to be able to get the best deals. The vendors estimate the prices according to the condition of the goods. The prices go up if the products are still working or if they are of a famous brand. If another customer is bidding for the product, the prices go up as well. As long as you are patient enough though, you will end up winning the bid.
When buying electronic devices, you may have to have faith in the vendor’s word that it works. “Çalışıyor mu?” is a crucial question to ask to learn if the device still works. Out of three analog cameras I bought there (each for 10 TL), only two actually worked.
Name an object and you will likely find it there. Toilet paper, batteries, computer equipment, second-hand shoes, cell phones, glasses, antiquities, decorative objects, old cameras, nail clippers, cigarettes, carpets, cassette recorders, and more can all be found among the goods.
When you go to the Dolapdere Flea Market, do not expect a perfectly organized bazaar. There is neither an extensive choice of souvenirs nor the mellow scent of spices. It is rather cigarette smoke and the smell of Kokoreç that fills the air. The market is mainly inhabited by people of various origins and there seem to be virtually no tourists. It is chaotic and the outcome of the visit is unpredictable. One day you may find nothing, and on another day you may return home with a bag full of unique collectibles, such as a new leather jacket that is a bit worn-down, or a pair of lovely earrings you found for only a couple of Liras.
And who knows, if the rumor proves to be true, you may even rediscover your cell phone or wallet that was stolen the other day.
Black and white photographs courtesy of Julia Totino. Color photographs courtesy of Geumana Ibrahim.
