ATÖLYE Spotlight: In Conversation with Öykü Özgencil, Founder of INCOMPLIT

There’s something to be said for the universal affinity of stories and storytelling in our collective childhoods. While this connection may seemingly fade as we age, it is a passion that is readily renewed when viewed through the eyes of children. Öykü Özgencil has always believed in the deeper value behind stories and their potential to strengthen the bonds that tie us all together. In founding INCOMPLIT, she has followed a naturally fitting progression in connecting the medium with fashion design, reflecting her steadfast belief in its power to promote empathy. In meaningful workshops that allow children to channel their inner voice through creative, constructive channels, Öykü offers an outlet for their expression with a tangible final product. From the initial steps of addressing the needs of disadvantaged groups and collaborating with NGOs, to every step and relationship in the production process, Öykü reinforces this empathy with an ethical approach to improving standards. In the fashion collections of INCOMPLIT, she invites us to actively take part and broaden the audience for these stories, while directly supporting the important work of organizations and the lives they better.

We took some to speak with Öykü on her own story and connection with the storytelling medium, the principled mission of INCOMPLIT, their varied collaborations, ethics in the production process, and what they hope to accomplish in the year ahead.

Öykü Özgencil, Founder of INCOMPLIT

Could you tell us a little bit about yourself?
Hello. I love pine trees and sea shells. In high school, I had decided to work in the field of social development, in different channels. I studied Social Law and Social Development at Panthéon-Sorbonne University, and did a post-grad Marketing program at U.C Berkeley, CA. After learning through my experiences with some corporations, people, cities, and books, I focused on an objective which was working on the communicability of stories as vehicles through which children share their state of mind and find inspiration. And by applying these stories through fashion items, we want you to be a part of this whole, expanding the impact through each purchase. In January 2016 I founded INCOMPLIT.

What was the inspiration behind INCOMPLIT & how did you end up pursuing this path?
Myths, fairy tales and stories give us a sense of cohesion. They help us to recognize the patterns, sometimes unconsciously but still, as deeply familiar. Stories remind us that whatever difficulties we might be experiencing have been encountered many times before. We are not alone, we are all connected. So INCOMPLIT nurtures awe to these invisible connections as well as each and every unique path chosen. I think and believe that these patterns are the solutions and instructions for how to navigate difficulty with grace and wisdom. On the other hand I believe in power of choice. That’s the reason why we cut each story in the middle and ask children to complete them with their own imagination. At the end, we use fashion design, which I believe the most attractive and easy to access field of design, as a medium to show and support the idea. I also think that garments are important pulpits and strong empathy vehicles. “Wearing another hat.”, “Putting oneself in someone else’s shoes”, these sayings didn’t derive coincidentally. Fashion design is a strong empathy vehicle. It has a deep sociological side like fairy tales and myths – they both have a timeless cycle. That’s the reason why I believe they will sustain the idea through its own life span.

Öykü Özgencil, Founder of INCOMPLIT

Could you share with us a bit about the mission? What are your main objectives with the project?
I can say that our mission is  to show children all the patterns and to give them a space to listen their inner voice which leads them on their own path and to write their own story. We also want to ameliorate all the shareholders we walk along with – from women cooperatives to tailor ateliers, from printing house to our suppliers and most importantly the source of all, mother nature!

Could you shed some light on the process from start to finish in getting a collection out to market?
The process begins with choosing the disadvantaged group which we want to dream and to create with. Then we are getting in touch with the related NGOs, and we prepare an agenda with instructors from different fields of art. So during the whole agenda we are working with the same story but each week we are exposing a new method to children as all children have different characteristics along with different talents and unfortunately, traumas. After this eight week long workshop series, the design process begins. We design ‘incomplete felt’ fashion designs. This is followed by marketing and sales. After each collection we use 10% of the profit to fulfill a need of the community.

What are some of the larger challenges in a project like this? What has the response been like?
For us the most challenging part is sales. In Turkey most of the retailers don’t have a work ethic. They don’t put forth any effort to maintain the trust and confidence of the designers. Unfortunately, it also doesn’t work reciprocally. They always expect trustworthiness and permanence. We set up our whole business model on trust. As we are donating a part of the profit the timing of the refund from the retailers is a very important part of the chain, however we can never rely on the dates pronounced, and this is a big problem for a fashion brand which utilizes a ‘giving back’ model.

Öykü Özgencil, Founder of INCOMPLIT

What can we expect from INCOMPLIT in 2018? Are there any new undertakings to look out for?
In 2018 we will continue to organize our workshops in collaboration with different NGOs. Which means we will continue to design and produce new storyteller wearable forms. Aside from this, we are working on some projects in the eastern part of Turkey with different collectives and women cooperatives. And we will start a conversation series dichotomously, under the themes of ‘therapeutic state of art’ and ‘responsible design’.

As we’re a publication for foreigners, any final words of advice or places to visit for people looking to make the most out of their time here in Istanbul?
For me the best part of the city is the old town. I feel an undescrible belonging to this part of the city. Luckily I need to visit often for buying fabrics and materiaIs. I love to do shopping in Mısır Bazaar and Grand Bazaar, to climb on the walls of Balat. To eat delicious food, I can recommend Can Oba and my recent discovery of the best burger place, Virginia Angus in Eminönü. Rather than the city I prefer to go to rural areas around for the weekends. You can either make a day trip or camping at Uzunya, Iznik Gölü, Terkos or Kerpe. They are all one to two hours driving away from the center.

To keep up with INCOMPLIT and their work, be sure to visit https://incomplit.com/. You can also follow them via Instagram and Facebook.

ATÖLYE Spotlight is our series on the inspiring community members of Istanbul’s most creative space.

All images courtesy of the interviewee.

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