Why isn’t love enough?
It’s hard to compete with rakı while overlooking the Bosphorus. It’s even more difficult to suggest that your taste buds might need something more than kahvaltı — who could imagine that one would need more than gözleme, menemen, cilbir, or Turkish coffee to sustain life? But there is that rare occasion, once in a blue moon, at the turn of the vernal equinox, when fairies come out to play, that one desires something other than the culinary treasures of Turkey. On those occasions, a search for more exotic cuisine can be somewhat difficult in Istanbul. To help with that search, I have listed my five favorite ethnic restaurants within the city limits.
Itsumi
The most immediate desire I have to fill when in search of exotic food is my need for sushi. Toward this end I have invested time and money in two establishments. If you just need a fix take a look at SushiCo, this will quiet the dragon. But for the more discerning addict, a more authentic experience may be necessary. Allow me to introduce you to Itsumi, a sushi enclave in the Levent area of Istanbul. A set menu including rolls, tempura, soup, and fish will set you back about 40 TL. Although this alone is appealing, the Fatty Toro Tuna and Mackeral that melt in your mouth are what really solidified my love for this place. And even though you may have to sell your first born to afford the nigiri menu, it’s well worth it. In addition to a traditional sushi menu, Itsumi has other offerings. I haven’t had a chance to try them, but I plan to return soon and will report on the experience.
İşkuleleri Kule
2 Giriş Katı, No:43
4. Levent
Tel: (0212) 264 64 48
Cafe Niko
Cafe Niko, located in the heart of Aksaray, is possibly the love of my life. It offers the kind of down home cooking that I am accustomed to in the heart of the deep South. Located in the international bus station, a short walk from the Mamaray stop in Yenikapı, Cafe Niko has a flavor that is uniquely its own. The hustle and bustle of life are seen through the microcosm of the bus station. Peeking through the window off the patio, you can watch the chef throw back beer to cool off on hot summer days while she creates Georgian culinary magic. Lobio, a bean dish reminiscent of southern Mississippi red beans and rice, will have you crawling back to Aksaray on your hands and knees. But the khinkali, the original pork soup dumplings as big as your fist, will have you doing the same trek but through broken glass and burning coals. I cannot extol the virtues of Cafe Niko enough. If the description hasn’t persuaded you, the price tag will. Nothing on the menu is over 8 TL. I’ve gone with parties of 6 people, ordered everything on the menu twice, chacha (Georgian grape moonshine), and wine and still not paid over 30 TL per person. If you’re into rustic culinary adventures, this is the spot for you.
Emniyet Otogarı (International Bus Station)
Aksaray
Tandoori
Turkey is obsessed with the natural flavor of food. The taste of meat should speak for itself unhindered by excessive sauces and spices. Indian food is the exact opposite. In my mind, the obvious love for spices in India is rivaled only by Cajun food in the deep south. If the complicated layering of spices associated with Indian food is what you’re craving, look no further than Tandoori in Beşiktaş. The curry is immaculate and when you ask for something spicy, be prepared to be impressed. Everything we ordered was next level spicy, yet so delicious we couldn’t refrain from eating more.
Çırağan Caddesi No: 49/1
Beşiktaş
Tel: (0212) 227 07 37
Burger House
Sometimes you gotta have a burger: a big, juicy, greasy burger American style. Usually burgers would not be exotic enough to deserve a presence on an international food list, but given the offerings in Istanbul it could not be ignored. If you’re craving a burger there is of course Fat Burger and Shake Shack. These will quench your thirst. However, if I may be so bold, Burger House hits the nail on the head beating both of these places out in terms of quality and taste. A relative of mine recently visited, and not only did she go to Burger House twice, but she also compared its offerings to the best burgers in the DC area. The onion rings are amazing and the salads are large enough to feed a small cow. Specialty burgers are available, but the only time I have been disappointed was when I ordered their quesadilla burger. My recommendation? Stick with the mushroom onion burger or the chef’s special burger, and all will be right with the world.
Burger House has locations all over the city. You can find a detailed list here.
Pera Thai
Pera Thai, located in Pera, is nice and cool with fancy decor. We ordered the beef satay with peanut sauce for an appetizer. The beef was delicate and peanut sauce was some of the best I’ve had. I ordered the red curry duck, which was a delightful fever dream of spices, while my friend had the stir fried chicken with mushrooms. Both dishes were astoundingly delightful not to mention quite authentic.
Meşrutiyet Caddesi No: 74/A
Tünel
Tel: (0212) 245 57 25
Where do you, dear readers, like to get your international food fix? Tell us in the comments!
Ellis Turner is a contributor to Yabangee and blogs at The Food Pornographers Guide to the Galaxy.
Although it’s not a place that just has international food, but I love Kaset in Besiktas. They have some delicious thai curry and quesadillas (I know, I know, spanning cuisines is normally a no-no, but it’s SO GOOD). Thanks for the article, Ellis!
That sushi place sounds promising though I am short one first born to sell. I have been craving some Indian too, thanks.
Sorry Ellis, but totally have to disagree about Tandoori. Just went to Dubb in Sultanahment today though with some of my fellow desi gal pals and more, and it was 8millionx better than anything Tandoori could offer. In fact, I thing the crazy amount of spice Tandoori adds to its dishes is just to mask how badly prepared they are.
Does anybody know any Ukrainian cafes, restaurants, etc in Istanbul? Do they exist?
Recommendations for a good Korean restaurant? I’ve heard there are a few around but I live on the Asian side so I don’t want to venture to Europe for one that hasn’t been vouched.
For the burgers, you should try Virginia Angus (in Sultanahmet and Nisantasi).
Burger Stop in Nişantısı is an off shoot of Egg and Burger and far superior. Haven’t tried Burger House but this is not the first good thing I have heard about it. PLUS the Burger Wars in Turkey are ongoing and new places are popping up monthly.
Japanese food is far more than sushi/sashimi. Udan’ya in Taksim area (Tarlabaşi? Under Point Hotel) is the best all round Japanese food I have had since NYC days. Not just sushi but good tempura, Udon (I will eat a lot this winter) Don Buri, Sukiyaki and so many others. Using the old America gauge I have rarely been there when the clientele hasn’t been about 80% Japanese. It’s reasonable too.
On the other hand my first born is all grown up and won’t be cool with being sold into slavery so I have only been able to eat at Maroma in Divan Hotel twice but it is amazing. They offer the traditional Kaiseki Dinner which might appeal to the Turkish sensibility insofar as it’s multiple course dinner (like Meze).
Hamov and Mehkan are great Armenian kitchens.
Lots of Korean business here so Korean restaurants are all around. My favorite is in Sisli / Gayretepe. They have traditional “at the table barbecue”. Fun and tasty. It’s called Çamsut. Good review below.
BTW I found this article be way too apologetic about wanting to eat another cuisine besides Turkish. It’s really OK to love foods from other cultures. I love Turkish food but I also crave variety – perhaps coming from NYC / USA drives that a bit. Also don’t forget the “Turkish Kitchen” itself is a fusion cuisine drawn from historical and current influences around the region and around the world.
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Also Pad Thai is the best,
[…] Niko is a Yabangee favorite and you can find previous articles about the food here andhere. It’s been open for four years and is a small space that caters mostly to the bus […]