There’s No Such Thing as a Simple Turkish Wedding

The marriage bureaucrats at the Şişli marriage bureau seem like the unhappiest people in the world. Just a few meters from the miniature theater, where everyday...

The Pursuit of Happiness in the ‘Bul

In this megacity, which delivers stress in seemingly increasing dosages year by year, I’m realizing that it is essential to wear a different pair...

Resources for Learning Kurdish in Istanbul

Maybe you’re thinking of traveling to eastern Turkey. Perhaps you want to get on better terms socially with Kurdish-speaking friends. Or maybe you just...

Discussing the Dönme with Artist and Researcher C.M. Kösemen (Part 2)

Dayla Rogers continues her conversation with artist and researcher C.M. Kösemen about the Dönme and their history.  You are a person of Dönme background. A...

Discussing the Dönme with Artist and Researcher C.M. Kösemen (Part 1)

It is well known that the Ottoman Empire was a place of incredible cosmopolitanism. What is often overlooked is the existence of “syncretic” peoples,...

The Dönme: A Profile of a Hidden People

“A Doenmeh friend of mine told me his father had informed him that his father’s mother used to go to the beach every Friday...

Aziz Nesin: Author, Humorist, Activist

At a gathering of the elite doctors of the world, speaker after speaker demonstrates a miracle of medical science. An operation able to change...

In Conversation with Swedish Cultural Attaché Suzi Erşahin

As a dweller of Nişantaşı, I am lucky enough to be located in one of the centers of the Istanbul arts and cultural scene....

Introducing Köşe: A New Performance Space in Kadıköy

There is a new space for performing arts in Kadıköy’s vibrant Yeldeğirmeni neighborhood: Köşe ("corner" in Turkish). Located on the Asian side of Istanbul, Köşe...

The Journey of the Istanbul Ferry

Vendors and commuters criss-cross in front of the gates of the dock. My friend and I use the akbil dangles with the circular buttons...

Istanbul International A Cappella Choir: The Voice of Istanbul

Guest Post by Sheldon Heyes. This post first appeared on Sheldon Heyes' website, Istanbul in Ink.  What do you get when a Brazilian diplomat, a Syrian...

Insider Trading: Murat Efe Prop House

Somewhere in the winding alleys of Fener and Balat, the former Greek-Jewish neighborhood of Istanbul, there is a hidden workshop and store that might...

Life under Occupation: A Review of Eleni by Nicholas Gage

When Mosul was invaded in June, one of the first announcements made by ISIS was that the civilians within their territory would be treated...

Kuzguncuk: Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Kuzguncuk is a little slip of a neighborhood whose reputation has a surprisingly wide reach. I had not even left dusty Tarsus in Southern...

Turkey Day in Turkey

Yes, I just did that. Referred to the joke-question we all hear from home: Do they eat turkey in Turkey? Well, yes, yes they...

23 Turkish Phrases I Wish Someone Had Taught Me

There are a number of phrases that Turks use in daily life that you may not find properly explained in your Intro to Turkish...

Volunteering in Istanbul: Tarlabaşı Community Center

Many of us find doing volunteer work to be a fulfilling way to connect with our community. For yabangees, volunteering can be a great...

Republic Day: A Last-Minute Guide

Republic Day (Cumhuriyet Bayramı) is this Wednesday, 29 October, and the holiday officially begins Tuesday afternoon. Republic Day commemorates the declaration of the Republic of...

Insider Trading: Fahrenheit 451 Recycling Store

You can walk into any chain bookstore in Istanbul and find stacks of neatly ordered books. Normally, they have the recently published stuff, and...

Barbarossa: A Monument in Passing, But a Legend on the White...

If you have ever strolled through the ferry port of Beşiktaş on the European side of Istanbul, chances are you have walked past a...

Foodie Frolics: Gourmet Adventures in Istanbul with Sally McDonald

The first time I met Sally McDonald of Foodie Frolics I asked her what had brought her to Istanbul. I'm always curious about what...

Raquy Danziger: Darbuka Drummer Extraordinaire

A darbuka drum is a Middle Eastern instrument whose structure varies depending on location. They all have a conical shape with a nearly circular...

Learning Turkish: What You’re Up Against

The task of learning a new language while living in a foreign country can be a fun challenge. But it can also be stressful, and...

Rakı Dos and Don’ts

On warm nights in Istanbul everyone is out. Restaurants open their doors onto the sidewalks of back streets, creating a maze of tables and...